BREAD 1


Get to grips with goblin bread


The etymology of German pumpernickel bread is rather silly: ‘pumpern’ means ‘to break wind’, and ‘nickel’ means ‘goblin’. It’s said the name came about due to the bread’s indigestibility — a little unfair given how comparatively nutritious it is. Germans love bread — on average, they each


eat more than 80kg a year; Britons manage 50kg — but, surprisingly, not much pumpernickel. “The market importance in Germany is rather small,” explains Bernd Kütscher, director of the German National Bakers Academy and head of the German Bread Institute. “But rye breads can be found in every region. They’re ideal for traditional German dinners — a slice of bread with ham, sausage or cheese.” Most rye breads are made from milled flour,


but pumpernickel uses a coarser, crushed whole-berry rye, with no added wheat flour. Also, like many rye breads, it needs to be made with a sourdough starter, rather than baker’s yeast, to avoid becoming inedibly dense. Assuming it wasn’t invented by a goblin with


an upset stomach, where does pumpernickel actually come from? “Westphalia, a region in western Germany,” says Bernd. “Legend has it that during the Soest Civil War [1444-1449], a baker forgot the bread dough he’d left in the slowly cooling oven and found it the next day,” adds Bernd. Today’s pumpernickel, like the forgetful baker’s, takes a long time to prepare (up to 24 hours). Even after it’s baked, you can’t tuck in straight away. “The finished bread must cool for at least one day before it can be cut,” insists Bernd. But for those who like their bread robust, it’s certainly worth the wait. RS


WHERE TO START: Daylesford Organic Farm, in Gloucestershire, makes organic pumpernickel packed with raisins and molasses. London’s Karaway Bakery serves up a Lithuanian-style loaf with sunflower seeds. daylesford.com karawaybakery.com


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NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/FOOD-TRAVEL


IMAGES: STOCKFOOD; GETTY; DAYLESFORD FARM/ A LOVE FOR FOOD, DAYLESFORD ORGANIC, PUBLISHED BY FOURTH ESTATE, HARPER COLLINS, £30.


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