BREAD 7
Learn a thing or five about challah
Uri Scheft is founder of Breads Bakery in New York, owner of Lehamim Bakery in Tel Aviv and author of Breaking Breads: A New World of Israeli Baking (£27.99, Artisan). Here, he shares five facts about this Jewish special-occasion bread.
Challah is similar in appearance to brioche,
but is kosher and dairy-free. “Challah is a bread, while brioche belongs to the viennoiserie family, along with croissants and Danish pastries. Brioche is very rich, thanks to lots of eggs and butter, whereas challah dough uses water to bring together the ingredients. For kosher reasons, Jewish challah is made with vegetarian oil.” It’s important to under-do everything.
“Slightly underknead the dough, so it’s not worked to the gluten’s full potential. Slightly underproof the challah, so that when you press a finger into the rising dough, the depression that’s left fills in about halfway. Slightly underbake to a light brownish colour, so the bread will still be moist the next day. My challah is a lightly sweet and very tender bread that pulls apart into long, cottony strands.” Challah isn’t always braided — the design
depends on where it’s made. “The way challah is shaped makes it special; it’s no ordinary loaf or boule. Although challah is considered an Eastern European Jewish (Ashkenazi) bread, I’ve seen versions baked around the world. In Djerba, Tunisia, the challah isn’t braided at all but is shaped as a kishlaya (flower). In Colombia, they add chocolate and streusel [crumb topping]. I’ve fashioned loaves inspired by ancient Roman art and texts depicting Jewish people, and I’ve baked small tins into the centre of the challah to then be filled with salt or honey for dipping. The three-strand braided challah is an entry- level challah; shaping it is no more difficult than braiding a young girl’s hair.” Challah has travelled the world with the
Jewish diaspora, allowing it to spread to gentile communities. “In Eastern Europe, I discovered bakeries that make challah daily without realising the bread was in any way related to Jewish culture.” Its richness is part of the ritual. “In the old
days, to differentiate between day-to-day bread and shabbat [the Sabbeth] bread, they added what were expensive ingredients to the dough, like eggs, oil and sugar. Challah is a bread meant for occasions; the ritual is to bless the wine and then the challah, then sprinkle the bread with salt and pass each person a piece.”
Challah loaf with a dip in the centre Left: Window of a Parisian boulangerie displaying a variety of breads
WHERE TO START London’s Rinkoff bakery offers a plaited and a round challah, as well as a raisin version. Mark’s Bakery in Devon sells challah burger buns, plus plain, poppy seed and sesame seed loaves.
marksbread.co.uk/bakery rinkoffbakery.co.uk
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