IMAGES: ZACH HILTY; STEVE KEPPLE; AUBRIE PICK; ERIC WOLFINGER
AMSTERDAM
A DAY IN
PLANTAGE & CZAAR PETERBUURT
These east Amsterdam neighbourhoods are separated by a maze of waterways leading to the docklands. Grab coffee from Olie & Zo, whose adjoining deli sells fresh bread and Mediterranean goodies. Then work your way down Czaar Peterstraat (once voted the Netherlands’ best shopping street), where highlights include cheeses from Fromagerie Kef and fancy-flavoured peanut butter (syrup waffle and cinnamon, or garlic and fried onions, for instance) at De Pindakaaswinkel. Stop for lunch at Frank’s Smoke House.
Expect various ingredients, from the burrata in your salad and the jalapeno relish on your fish and chips, to have been smoked in the century- old smokehouse. Around the corner, InStock Amsterdam — whose chefs cook with surplus, in-date food sourced from supermarkets and wholesalers — is a tasty alternative. Across the bridge you’ll spot the De Gooyer
Windmill, next to the city’s best-known craft brewery, Brouwerij ’t IJ. Squeeze into the tasting room for a flight of its most popular
beers before strolling up Entrepotdok, an imposing stretch of Dutch East India Company- era warehouses — now smart apartments overlooking the Artis Amsterdam Royal Zoo. Exploring the zoo’s stunning grounds
makes for a pleasant afternoon, and De Plantage — a former greenhouse at the zoo’s entrance, elegantly recast as an all-day grand cafe — is perfectly placed for dinner. Try the ravioli stuffed with fennel-studded sausage, preserved lemon and sage, or roasted aubergine slices topped with pine nuts and cumin-scented chermoula. Press on towards the Amstel River for
a nightcap on the terrace of A Bar at the palatial InterContinental Amstel Amsterdam hotel; the views of the townhouses propping each other up on the opposite bank, and the wistful Magere Brug bridge, are perfect. Be sure to sample the fresh, grassy, orgeat-laced molendijk, or one of the bar’s other signature cocktails, all of which are inspired by Amsterdam’s trading history.
RED LIGHT DISTRICT GEMS
Rosalia’s Menagerie With its floral wallpaper, velvet armchairs and ornate chandeliers, this cocktail bar (above) exudes a bygone- boudoir vibe. A favourite with the city’s bartenders, it specialises in local genevers and liqueurs. Its drinks menu is categorised by flavour — if you’re not sure what you want, friendly, waistcoated staff can steer you in the right direction.
rosalias.amsterdam
Blauw aan de Wal Tucked away down a narrow alleyway just off the Red Light District’s main drag, this upmarket restaurant has a changing menu with a modern European bent. Dishes might include silky smooth ajo blanco dotted with watermelon, or pressed lamb neck with sweetbread croquettes and seasonal vegetables. Ask for a seat on the pretty, secluded terrace.
blauwaandewal.com
Service in Kessens . Left, from top: De Kas; &Moshik
Café’t Mandje An icon of Amsterdam’s LGBTQ+ scene, this historic brown bar (established in 1927) was operated for 40 years by Bet van Beeren, a local legend celebrated for running the business as a haven of liberalism and tolerance. The bar is crammed with memorabilia (including ties, cut from the necks of patrons by a sozzled Bet).
cafetmandje.amsterdam
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