JAMAICA
Although a purpose-built pit has replaced
the hole in the ground of old, and it’s corrugated zinc rather than a banana leaf that keeps the heat in, Scotchies takes a time- honoured approach to its star attraction. The pork is scalded in water before the application of a dry rub containing cloves, pimento, black and white peppercorns, salt and the ubiquitous scotch bonnet; it’s then left overnight. Crucially, it’s cooked directly on pimento wood, which gives the meat its smokiness. And as that pungent smoke wafts across Falmouth Road, the procession of cars pulling up for lunch is proof the appetite for Scotchies’ secret recipe shows no sign of waning.
THE COFFEE P L ANTATION C R AIGHTON ES TAT E
Leaving Kingston in the rear-view mirror, we ascend into the verdant foothills of Jamaica’s Blue Mountains. “Sorry about the road — this is how you dance reggae in Jamaica,” laughs the driver as we career around hairpin bends that bring forested gullies into view. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the
mountain range provides the perfect growing conditions for coffee that ranks among the world’s best. As we pull into the 200-year- old Craighton Estate, 3,100ft above sea level, I’m met by tour guide Jerome Thomas, who explains why the crop here stands out. “Blue Mountain coffee is the champagne of coffees. The entire island can produce coffee but the altitude, volcanic soil and microclimate make it special,” he says, climbing a path past mango, banana and avocado trees and rows of ripening coffee plants. “All year round, we get even sunshine, humidity and rainfall.” One of 20 registered coffee estates in the Blue Mountains, Craighton is the first in the Caribbean to be certified by the Rainforest Alliance, heralded for its planting of indigenous species and use of natural fertilisers. “We can’t compete with larger producers
on quantity but we can compete by producing the highest-quality arabica,” Jerome tells me over a cup. According to him, the coffee’s longer growing time makes it naturally alkaline, highlighted by the golden ring visible around the edge of my cup. “It’s full- bodied and smooth, and, as the beans contain natural sucrose and glucose, you shouldn’t need any sweeteners.” Reclining in his seat, Jerome pours sweet
condensed milk into his cup. Clocking my reaction, he says, “Do as I say, not as I do — this is the Jamaican way.”
THE MARKE T FALMOU TH
Trelawny is one of Jamaica’s biggest farming parishes, and the market at Falmouth, its capital, is an excellent spot to get to grips with its abundant produce. Having retained much
Jerk chicken at Scotchies
Christopher Golding’s poached red snapper This fish dish is light, but the scotch bonnet peppers and pimento seeds add a kick
SERVES: 2 TAKES: 20 MINS
INGREDIENTS 4 tbsp coconut oil 280g onions 225g spring onions 110g cherry tomatoes 110g carrots, chopped 110g snow peas 225g ginger 110g garlic 225g annatto seeds 1 tin coconut milk 4 sprigs of thyme 110g pimento seeds 60g scotch bonnet peppers (approx. 4), chopped
280g coconut flakes 60g parsley, chopped
400g snapper fillet 4 tbsp Appleton rum steamed vegetables or rice, to serve
METHOD Heat the coconut oil in a pan set over
a medium heat. Sauté the vegetables with the ginger and garlic for 2 mins, then add the annatto seeds and coconut milk and cook for 2 mins more. Scoop out the seeds and discard, then add the thyme sprigs, pimento seeds and scotch bonnet peppers. In a separate pan, toast the coconut
flakes until golden brown, then tip into a bowl. Add the parsley and mix well. Season the snapper fillet, then add
to the coconut milk mixture and poach for 5-6 mins over a medium heat. Pour the rum into a separate pan and ignite to burn off the alcohol, then stir into the coconut milk mixture. Garnish the snapper with the parsley
mixture and serve with steamed vegetables or rice.
NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/FOOD-TRAVEL
109
IMAGE: ALAMY
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