JAMAICA
of its colonial-era architecture, Falmouth is a popular stop-off for cruise ships, but the Saturday market is very much a local affair, with residents flocking here to stock up on herbs, spices and other provisions for the week ahead. Holding a paper cup of warm, nutmeg-spiced
plantain porridge, I meet Tee, who advises I wear gloves to handle the scotch bonnets on her stall, before explaining how the riper red and brown peppers are the ones truly packing heat. Further on, past piles of sugar cane and potatoes, I’m shown how to spot ripe ackee — a fruit that’s boiled and served with sautéed saltfish — and why it’s important to remove its poisonous seeds and lining beforehand. As I leave, stallholder Claude offers me
freshly butchered goat meat. With a long journey ahead of me, I can’t accept, but he gives out recipe advice nonetheless, urging me to rub in cloves, ginger, garlic and spring onions before sticking it on the grill. “Now that’s good nyammin’,” he says, throwing in the Creole word for ‘eating’ for good measure.
THE RUM DI S T I L L E RY HAMPDEN ES TAT E
“Our rums are so complex they’re described as ‘funky’ — it’s hard to pick out a particular smell,” says Steve Watson, the manager of the Hampden Estate, during a tour. Although it’s only been Jamaican-owned since 2009, the Trelawny rum distillery has barely changed in centuries, and still using heavy pot stills to impart a heavier, deeper flavour. Part of its unique flavour profile stems from
the use of dunder (the yeasty waste liquid from previous distillations) in its production. Steve tells me the resulting rum contains more esters (fragrant organic compounds) than any other in the Caribbean. This high- grade bouquet means the rum has even been snapped up by Chanel for its perfumes. As Steve pours a 63% proof Rum Fire Velvet,
which brings tears to my eyes, I ask why other companies don’t follow suit. “Maybe they just don’t care enough about flavour,” he replies.
hampdenrumcompany.com
From top: Blue Mountains; beef patties
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Virgin Atlantic flies to Montego Bay, while British Airways flies to Kingston, both from Gatwick.
virgin-atlantic.com
ba.com
STAYING THERE Half Moon has B&B doubles from £300 a night. Sandals Montego Bay has a week, all-inclusive, from £2,075 per person with flights and transfers.
halfmoon.com
sandals.co.uk
MORE INFO
visitjamaica.com
JAMAICAN ORIGINALS
Patties Inspired by pastries brought over by European colonists, improved with cumin and curry powder introduced by Indian servants, and enhanced further with locally grown scotch bonnet, patties are the ultimate in fast food. Egg yolk gives the pastry a golden shade, while minced beef, curried chicken, cheese and callaloo are among the most popular fillings.
Sweet potato pudding ‘Hell a top, hell a bottom; hallelujah in the middle’ is the Jamaican name for this dense sweet potato cake (a reference to the Dutch oven it’s traditionally cooked in, with hot coals below and above). Recipes vary across the island; some swap sweet potato for cornmeal, and additions include coconut milk, rum, nutmeg and Red Label Wine (a fortified wine).
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