CALIFORNIA
WINE & CHEESE PAIRING
Cabernet sauvignon Sonoma’s cabernets tend to be packed with sharp notes of blackcurrant, spices and, sometimes, chocolate. They need cheeses that stand up to them, such as blue cheese with punchy, piquant flavours softened by a creamy texture.
Sparkling The sharp acidity and mousse (foam) of Sonoma’s sparkling wines (made using the same method used to produce champagne) are perfect for slicing through the richness of triple-cream cheeses. The bubbles can cleanse the palate, too.
of plasticky grated stuff. The stereotype is unfair, however; some states, such as Vermont and Wisconsin, have long been famed for standout dairy products, while Oregon’s Rogue River Blue beat Italian, French, Swiss and UK finalists to the top spot at last year’s World Cheese Awards. Although cheese tourism is relatively new in
Northern California, its cheesemaking history stretches back to the 1750s, when Spanish missionary Father Junípero Serra introduced dairy cows to the region. During the Gold Rush of the mid-19th century, Point Reyes peninsula — dubbed ‘cow heaven’ because of its salt-sprayed grasslands — became a hub of dairies supplying butter and cheese to San Francisco’s miners. In the years since, the number of dairies in
Marin County has plummeted, dropping from 200 in 1950 to around 30 today, largely due to market fluctuations and increasing demand for land from developers. In the late 1970s, Point Reyes was earmarked for new freeways and shopping malls. Ranchers, environmentalists and community leaders teamed up to prevent the development and, in the process, formed the Marin Agricultural Land Trust (MALT) in 1980. Many farms on the California Cheese Trail are protected by the trust, meaning the land can only be used for agriculture. Today’s surviving dairies focus on handcrafted
cheeses, often produced with milk from certified organic farms. It’s a smart move in an area known for world-
class wines and farm-to-fork restaurants that draw from abundant local produce — both of which attract people from around the world.
Culinary landscape Driving to the Nicasio Valley Cheese Company, close to Point Reyes, it’s difficult to contemplate all this beauty could have been bulldozed away. The road wiggles beneath vertiginous redwood trees and past fields grazed by black-and-white holstein cows, offering occasional glimpses of salt marshes and the silvery- sapphire of the Pacific. The family business was begun as a dairy in
1919 by Rick Lafranchi’s grandfather, who immigrated from Maggia in the Swiss Alps. It wasn’t until the ranch was passed down to Rick and his siblings that they began making cheese — partly to realise a long-standing ambition of their father, Will, who died in 2002. Rick and his brother Scott spent some time in
Maggia, learning to make Swiss mountain–style cheeses before returning to perfect their art at Nicasio. “In Maggia, cows grazing on one side of the valley produce a different-tasting cheese than cows grazing on the other side,” says Rick. The terroir here in this part of California is equally complex and unique, he claims, boasting some of the best cattle pastures in the world. “People have said the North Bay area could be to cheese what Napa is to wine,” he adds.
Viognier Thanks to the cool, coastal breeze, the viogniers here tend to be crisp and floral with subtle notes of stone fruit. So there’s enough acidity to balance and cut through buffalo or cow mozzarella, without overwhelming its delicate flavour.
Pinot noir With a distinct flavour and complex palate, coastal pinot noirs have a lot in common with brie. Each brings out the other’s earthy, mushroomy notes, while the wine’s hint of raspberry adds a welcome, yet subtle, dash of sweetness.
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