AMSTERDAM


A DAY IN


THE JORDAAN & HAARLEMMERBUUR


You can’t come to Amsterdam without strolling along its crescent-shaped Grachtengordel (canal belt). With its spindly, lopsided townhouses, fairy-lit bridges and colourful houseboats moored nose-to-tail at the water’s edge, it’s supremely atmospheric. Start at Scandi-style cafe Kessens. A bright,


airy space with creative flower arrangements and a laid-back feel, it’s a locals’ favourite for its good coffee and decadent breakfasts, including sugared French toast with honey- lime mascarpone. Just around the corner is the Jordaan, a


formerly working-class neighbourhood that retains its old-Amsterdam spirit. It’s where Anne Frank lived, and the museum here memorialising her and one of the darkest periods in the country’s history is a must-visit. Continue along the Prinsengracht (Prince’s


Canal) towards Noorderkerk (the square outside this church hosts a Saturday farmers’ market selling local organic produce). For lunch, head to Westerstraat to order silky smooth hummus topped with spiced, roasted cauliflower and emerald-green zhug (Middle Eastern hot sauce) at D&A Hummus Bistro, whose bold flavours, modern looks and carefree attitude are inspired by the hummus bars its Israeli founder, Adi Goldberg, grew up with. Crisscross the backstreets of the Jordaan,


browsing its rare books and vintage furniture, until you hit Brouwersgracht, a pretty canal backed by handsome, red-shuttered former warehouses. One of the best people-watching spots is Café Thijssen, an olde-worlde brown bar with a sun-trap terrace that serves locally brewed beers and traditional borrel bites. For a spot of shopping, head over to


nearby Haarlemmerdijk; pop into artisan chocolatier Jordino for creamy homemade ice cream served in a chocolate-dipped cone, before visiting recipe-book treasure trove De Kookboekhandel. Stop off and catch a screening at The Movies, a gorgeous art-deco arthouse cinema, before ending your evening at Vesper, where creative cocktails are served in friendly surroundings.


KI TCHEN GARDENS


De Kas This chic greenhouse-style restaurant is best visited at lunchtime or on a summer evening, when the huge windows give views over its kitchen garden and Frankendael Park beyond. The tasting menu makes fruit, veg and herbs the heroes — almost everything is grown by the restaurant (mainly off site) or by local farmers. restaurantdekas.com


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Gartine Hidden down a central-Amsterdam alleyway, this homely bistro has its own kitchen garden outside the city. A local institution and Slow Food champion, it has just 10 tables. Book ahead for rustic breakfast and lunch dishes. The latter include sourdough toast topped with pumpkin seed cheese, orange chutney and cauliflower, served with a green salad. gartine.nl


NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/FOOD-TRAVEL


Juniper & Kin - Kitchen Garden & Bar Preserved ingredients and raw food take centre- stage at Juniper & Kin (a rooftop bar with top- notch nibbles) and its fine dining companion The Kitchen Garden. Visit its high-tech nursery, where around 70 plant varieties form the backbone of the menu. Don’t miss a cocktail (and stunning views of the city) in the fantastic bar. juniperandkin.nl


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