image: alamy. MAP ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER
istanbul
Istiklal Caddesi Pera Palace Hotel Beyoglu
500 yards
Galata Bridge
IS T ANBUL Sultanahmet
Grand Bazaar
Hagia Sophia Blue Mosque TURKEYIstanbul
Topkapi Palace
Fresh fish sandwiches being made on the waterfront of Eminonu
------------ When to go: Istanbul
ESSENTIALS -
from Kilis and mulberry molasses; and a classic milk pudding, coated in crispy strands of deep-fried pastry. Beyoglu was once known as Pera and
nicknamed Little Europe for the many embassies that were housed in its ornate 19th-century buildings. After the founding of the Turkish Republic in 1923, the area’s mile-long central artery was re-named Istiklal Caddesi, or Independence Avenue. The following morning, I join the
crowds and dodged heritage trams along this vibrant thoroughfare, and discover a fascinating mix of old and new. International brands sit side-by-side with simit carts, a 15th-century marble hammam next to a sleek modern art gallery, and Istanbul’s oldest wine bars vie with contemporary cocktail lounges. I escape the throng for a sedate afternoon
tea in the opulent Kubbeli Saloon at the Pera Palace Hotel. Opened in 1892 to house the first passengers on the Orient Express, underneath the magnificent domed ceiling and glittering chandeliers, a table groans under the weight of enticing cakes from the hotel’s patisserie. To the soundtrack of a tinkling piano,
I imagine Greta Garbo lounging on a red velvet chaise longue, Agatha Christie plotting storylines over a cucumber
40 • postcards
sandwich, and Ernest Hemingway downing a whiskey or three in the Orient Bar. That evening, I eat at one of the city’s most
exclusive eateries, the award-winning Mikla perched on the top of the Marmara Pera Hotel and with panoramic city views. Headed up by celebrity chef Mehmet Gürs — dubbed the Godfather of New Anatolian cuisine — his contemporary seven-course tasting menu (there’s also a three-course prix fixe) reflects his Turkish-Scandinavian roots. The restaurant works with a food
anthropologist to search out the finest ingredients and I feast on dishes such as tender octopus with zingy pomegranate vinegar; dried beef tenderloin with earthy isot chili; and flavorsome Ezine white cheese and buffalo yogurt with jammy molasses, all perfectly paired with unexpectedly good Turkish wine. As the setting sun bathes the city in a golden glow, I’m only distracted from my plate by the showstopping skyline of silhouetted domes and minarets. I round off with a creative cocktail mixing
twice-distilled raki – Turkey’s potent aniseed spirit – with gin, hibiscus, and cranberry juice, while drinking in the views across the Bosphorus to the twinkling lights of Asia. No wonder they say go for the history, stay
for the food.
is a year-round destination but the best times to visit are May/June, and September/October, when it’s not too hot for exploring but the evenings are warm enough to dine outside. Currency: Turkish Lire. $1 = 17.34 TRY Language: Turkish Getting around: Neighborhoods such as Sultanahmet, Eminönü and Karaköy are best explored on foot. Tram T1 stops near must-see sights such as Hagia Sophia and the Galata Tower. One of the best ways to see the city is from the deck of a public ferry, which stops at both the European and Asian shores. You can also beat the traffic jams by taking the M1A metro line to the airport.
------------ See the infamous Blue
BOOK IT NOW -
Mosque before bargaining at the electric Grand Bazaar, which has more than 4,000 shops. Embark on Insight Vacation’s 11-day Wonders of Turkey tour, which departs November 23, 2022.
------------ To book your trip to
CALL US -
Istanbul, contact your travel advisor.
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