istanbul
BEST OF THE REST
Aheste Chef Sara Tabrizi serves up thoroughly modern hot and cold mezze with Turkish, Ottoman and Middle Eastern influences. The decor’s simple but stylish, the atmosphere’s laid-back and there’s a good wine list.
on a classic — a box of fragrant, rosewater- flavored morsels. From the busy waterfront at Eminönü,
I cross the Galata Bridge, which spans the Golden Horn, the body of water that separates old and new Istanbul. Fishermen stand shoulder-to-shoulder along the bridge and, behind me, I can still hear the guttural cries of “balik ekmek” — literally “fish and bread” — from the fishing boats tied to the quay. Hungry commuters often grab a fish
sandwich-to-go, grilled mackerel topped with lettuce, onion, red cabbage, parsley and a squeeze of lemon, before they ferry hop home along the European and Asian shores. Dating back to the region’s nomadic
tribes, street food is deep-rooted in Turkish culture and it can still see you through a day’s sightseeing. I’d already tried oval- shaped pide — a Turkish take on pizza — but wanted to try lahmacun, a round, wafer-thin flatbread topped with a mixture of ground lamb, red peppers, tomatoes and onion, flavored with garlic, paprika and chiles. Across the bridge in Karaköy, I drop into a
cupboard-sized, no-name restaurant, order, and within minutes the lahmacun’s in my hands, piping hot from the oven. I give it a sprinkling of fresh parsley and a squirt of lemon juice and eat it rolled like a burrito, washed down with a glass of yogurt-based, salty-and-sour ayran. There are also dozens of types of kebabs and, after a long night, convivial Istanbullus
often refuel with a classic doner — the meat, traditionally lamb or beef, cooked and expertly shaved off a vertical rotisserie — from a hole-in-the-wall joint. Or the more elaborate iskender, aka the king of Turkish kebabs, where meat is served over cubes of flatbread cooked in a rich tomato sauce and then smothered in garlicky yogurt. The city has just as many types of
restaurants: a meyhane usually serves mezze — tapas-style hot and cold dishes, while a traditional lokanta is a no-frills affair serving fresh, home-style cooking. Now there’s a new generation of homegrown chefs taking the dishes their grandmothers made and giving them a contemporary twist, and many of them will be recognized by Michelin when the guide makes its Turkish debut in October 2022. That evening, I head to Beyoglu’s
Yeni Lokanta, which translates as ‘new restaurant,’ a buzzy bistro with local touches, such as Iznik-style tiles. Chef-owner Civan Er sources seasonal ingredients from all over the country, such as blue cheese from Konya, olive oil from Marmaris and sour pomegranate from Antakya. Among the menu standouts are dried
eggplant-stuffed manti — delicate dumplings traditionally made with lamb or beef — in a goat’s milk yogurt sauce; Er’s own-recipe lamb sausage that he has specially made in southeastern Turkey, served with burnt yogurt from Denizli, sun-dried black grapes
Karaköy Lokantasi This family-run, modern take on a tiled lokanta is a local’s favorite for its hot and cold mezze and top-notch raki. Or try a Ottoman-era stew, such as the Sultan’s Delight, with tender slow-cooked lamb and smoky eggplant puree.
NeoLokal Part of Karaköy’s SALT Galata cultural complex, chef Maksut Askar puts his own spin on Turkish produce sourced from a sustainable farm. Expect a three- and six-course tasting menu, creative cocktails and breathtaking city views from its floor-to-ceiling windows.
Turk Fatih Tutak Chef-owner Fatih Tutak’s daily-changing tasting menu focuses on sustainably sourced ingredients and is inspired by Turkish heritage in Anatolia, the Mediterranean and the Balkans. Each plate is a piece of art, with bold flavors that pair perfectly with Turkish wine.
Clockwise from top left: Istanbul skyline, with the Bosphorus and Galata Tower; the Blue Mosque; Turkish delight at the Spice Bazaar
SUMMER 2022 • 39
images: awl images; get ty
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