Snow and steam Zao Onsen is named for Mt. Zao, a cluster of volcanoes straddling Yamagata and Miyagi prefectures. The volcanic activity feeds the hot springs of the resort, and has created a natural playground for hikers, skiers, snowboarders, and photographers. The smell of sulphur fills the air in Zao, steam billows from channels and pipes that carry hot spring water throughout the town, and on cold days the entire village seems shrouded in mist. Most hotels and inns in the town have onsen on site, and there are also public baths scattered throughout the town. Some of these are simple affairs, two rooms segregated by sex, where you bring your own towel and drop Y100 (73p) in the box at the door. Genshichiro is a mountainside onsen with indoor and outdoor baths. Luxuriating in steaming hot spring water amid the cold mountain air is an indelibly joyous experience.