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LIMA


ESSENTIALS


Casa Fugaz CALLAO


SAN MIGUEL


P A C IFIC O C EAN


SAN ISIDRO El Olivar Park Huaca Pucilana Surquillo Market


Lima Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC Lima)


MIRAFLORES BARRANCO


(Mario Testino’s gallery) CHORRILLOS PERU Lima 2 Miles MATE


Barrio Chino


CENTRO Museo Larco


Getting there & around


British Airways offers the only direct flights from London to Lima. ba.com Average flight time: 12h35m. Although buses connect central


Lima, Miraflores and Barranco a car is the best way to explore the sprawling city. Inexpensive taxis abound (negotiate fares before boarding) and Uber is well established.


Lunch at Huaca Pucllana, in Miraflores, a restaurant that serves a mix of contemporary and classical Peruvian dishes


When to go


2PM (SUNDAYS) ALFONSO UGARTE ANTIQUES MARKET Every Sunday, around a dozen peddlers gather on quiet Avenida Alfonso Ugarte for this sidewalk showcase of vintage dishware, furnishings, artworks, tchotchkes, books, vinyl and other treasures. Wheeling, dealing and genteel haggling abound but the sale is closed with lots of friendly banter from merchants.


8PM HUACA PUCLLANA It’s in every guidebook, but the experience is exquisite. A five-star restaurant splurge in Miraflores, right next to the namesake Lima-civilisation archaeological site. A terrace adjacent to its adobe pyramid and surrounding plazas, patios and chambers serves as a brilliant dining room for stellar people-watching and haute Peruvian cuisine. The latter includes impeccably turned-out quinoa salads, tiraditos and ceviches, plus fish and shellfish from the Pacific and nearby rivers. More adventurous palates savour delicacies like alpaca and guinea pig. resthuacapucllana.com


120 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel


10PM COCKTAILS AT BAR INGLÉS Aſter a full day of Lima intensity, shake off any dust (physical or psychological) with a stiff, old-school cocktail in the Bar Inglés at the Country Club Lima Hotel. That bone- dry martini, heart-warming manhattan or piquant negroni, mixed to five-star standards, is the perfect attitude adjustment, especially in a fine, wainscoted barroom that rides the line with genuine Britannia fakery. countryclublimahotel.com


4AM LATE-NIGHT SUPPER AT SIETE SOPAS A soaring industrial space, awash in neon and favoured by post-nightlife refugees, the Surquillo branch of Siete Sopas (open 24/7) has diners clustering at long, shared tables that quickly lead to bonhomie. Nightly limited fixed menus (sandwiches, pasta, chicken) showcase one of seven soups that are Peruvian regional classics, including a sui-generis minestrone, a stick-to-your ribs beef and bean potage, or sancocho, an originally Caribbean stew that’s packed with meat, potatoes or cassava and corn on the cob.


Lima’s climate is temperate and dry, with negligible rainfall (less than 6cm annually). Winter (June- October) temperatures range from 15-20C; summer (November-May) temperatures from 16-27C.


Places mentioned


Hotel Casa República. casarepublica.com Hotel B. relaischateaux.com MAC Lima. maclima.pe Pedro de Osma Museum. museopedrodeosma.org MATE – Museo Mario Testino. mate.pe Larco Museum. museolarco.org Queirolo. bodegaqueirolo.com Piano Bar Munich. facebook.com/ pianobarmunichoficial Monumental Callao. monumentalcallao.com


More info


peru.travel visitlima.pe


How to do it


CHIMU ADVENTURES can arrange travel around Lima, accommodation at Hotel Casa República (Barranco), and airport transfers. chimuadventures.com


ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER


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