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Contributors National Geographic Traveller (UK)


David Whitley It’s easy to write Prague off as just another European city with a pretty Old Town, but venture further out from the centre and the Czech capital shows that it is much more multifaceted. And the beer, of course, is still excellent. PRAGUE P.44


Amelia Duggan Guatemala is known for its Maya ruins, but this ancient culture lives on in the indigenous communities of the Western Highlands. Here, I camped by a live volcano, partook in fi ery blessings and fl ew kites for the Day of the Dead. GUATEMALA P.72


Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Editor: Pat Riddell Deputy Editor: Stephanie Cavagnaro (maternity leave) Acting Deputy Editor: Amelia Duggan Executive Editor: Glen Mutel Associate Editors: Sarah Barrell, Nicola Trup Commissioning Editor: Connor McGovern Section Editor: Tamsin Wressell Project Editor: Zane Henry Online Editor: Josephine Price Assistant Online Editor: Nora Wallaya Content Editor: Charlotte Wigram-Evans Head of Sub Editors: Hannah Doherty Sub Editors: Chris Horton, Ben Murray Operations Manager: Seamus McDermott Head of Events: Natalie Jackson Design Studio Manager: Caroline Guest Art Editor: Becky Redman Senior Designer: Lauren Gamp Production Manager: Daniel Gregory


Special Projects Consultant: Matthew Midworth Head of Partnerships: William Allen Partnerships Manager, Events: Daniel McGeehan Sales & Partnerships Team: James Bendien, Grace Diamond, Bob Jalaf, Kevin Killen, Gabriela Milkova, Adam Phillips, Mark Salmon, Euan Whitbourn Head of National Geographic Traveller — The Collection: Danny Pegg


APL Media


Editorial Manager: Jo Fletcher-Cross Contributing Editors: Sam Lewis, Farida Zeynalova Project Editor: Mattie Lacey-Davidson Editorial Admin Assistant: Angela Locatelli Intern: Samaksh Kalra Art Editor: Lauren Atkinson-Smith Designers: James Ladbury, Jess Campe Picture Editor: Olly Puglisi Production Controllers: Karl Martins, Joe Mendonca, Drew O’Neill, Lisa Poston, Anthony Wright


Head of Commercial Strategy: Chris Debbinney-Wright APL Business Development Team: Chris Dalton, Adam Fox, Cynthia Lawrence, Sinead McManus


Chief Executive: Anthony Leyens Managing Director: Matthew Jackson Sales Director: Alex Vignali Offi ce Manager: Hayley Rabin Sales Administrator: Melissa Jurado Head of Finance: Ryan McShaw Credit Manager: Craig Chappell Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover Accounts Assistants: Jana Abraham, Stefano Pica


Emma Thomson Snaking across the Upper and Lower Galilee, the regions through which Jesus roamed, is Yam le Yam — the sea-to-sea hiking trail that’s the perfect introduction to everything that makes this compact country so unique ISRAEL P.82


National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited, Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. editorial@natgeotraveller.co.uk Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. F: 020 7253 9907. sales@natgeotraveller.co.uk Subscriptions T: 01293 312 166. natgeotraveller@subscriptionhelpline.co.uk


National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from National Geographic Partners, LLC. For more information contact natgeo.com/info. Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2020 and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither APL Media Ltd or National Geographic Traveller magazine accept any liability for views expressed, pictures used or claims made by advertisers.


National Geographic Partners


Chairman: Gary E. Knell Editorial Director: Susan Goldberg General Manager, NG Media: David Miller


International Editions


Aaron Millar Living in Denver is like the ultimate urban adventure — all the best food, arts and culture of one of America’s hottest up- and-coming cities, but with the mountains, skiing, hiking and outdoor bliss just a few miles from your doorstep. DENVER P.124


Editorial Director: Amy Kolczak Deputy Editorial Director: Darren Smith Editorial Specialist: Leigh Mitnick Translation Manager: Beata Nas


Editors: CHINA Sophie Huang; CZECHIA Ondrej Formanek; FRANCE Gabriel Joseph-Dezaize; GERMANY Werner Siefer; HUNGARY Tamas Vitray; INDIA Lakshmi Sankaran; ISRAEL Daphne Raz; ITALY Marco Cattaneo; SOUTH KOREA Bo-yeon Lim; LATIN AMERICA Claudia Muzzi; NETHERLANDS Arno Kantelberg; POLAND Agnieszka Franus; ROMANIA Catalin Gruia; RUSSIA Ivan Vasin; SPAIN Josan Ruiz; TURKEY Nesibe Bat


Tamsin Wressell Zambia and Zimbabwe’s wildlife plays a vital role in its economy, so the eff ects of poaching are far-reaching. I met the conservationists dedicating their lives to battling the impact poaching has on this precious ecosystem. ANTI-POACHING P.150


10 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel


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International Publishing


Senior Vice President: Yulia P. Boyle Senior Director: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr Senior Manager: Rossana Stella


Headquarters


Copyright © 2020 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. National Geographic Traveller and the Yellow Border Design are registered trademarks of National Geographic Society and used under license. Printed in the UK.


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