search.noResults

search.searching

dataCollection.invalidEmail
note.createNoteMessage

search.noResults

search.searching

orderForm.title

orderForm.productCode
orderForm.description
orderForm.quantity
orderForm.itemPrice
orderForm.price
orderForm.totalPrice
orderForm.deliveryDetails.billingAddress
orderForm.deliveryDetails.deliveryAddress
orderForm.noItems
LIMA


CULTURE CONSTELLATION Barranco makes for a comfortable jump-off to Lima’s constellation of culture. First- stop: nondescript, workaday Pueblo Libre. South of Centro and north west from San Isidro. Larco Museum, established here in 1926, is a dazzling focal point of city pride. A spiffy showcase for 45,000 pre-Columbian treasures amassed by Peruvian archaeology pioneer Rafael Larco Hoyle, generations of artists, scholars and aficionados, eager to go deeper into Peru’s rich heritage, esteem it as a temple. Arranged on 6ſt-high shelves, the museum’s vast collection of ceremonial vessels — craſted to contain everything from water to fermented beverages and sacrificial blood — overwhelms me in a thrilling way, as do chiaroscuro galleries showcasing jewellery, armour, ceramics, precious metals and rich, ancient textiles. “There’s got to be excitement in art — and


art museums,” says Larco spokesperson Samantha Encalada. We’re seated in the museum restaurant, an exquisite jewellery box in what must be Lima’s most impeccable botanic garden. Bougainvillea floods over stately hacienda walls; gnarled, age-old cactuses rise metres high; every corner harbours fascinating horticulture, winsome statuary. As a museum promoter, Samantha favours sensations over data, plus a focus on the overall cultural experience. Referring to outcomes from Peru’s violent 20th century and current political wrangling, she asserts that the “old-school Lima” of select elite families — taking cues from Europe and the US and all but hostile to the nation’s ethnic and artistic diversity — is giving way. A museum that began life as a solemn reliquary is now a dynamic cultural centre attracting wider audiences; part of Samantha’s charge is finding ways for Larco to bring marginal populations into contact with the emotion and joy the museum affords. “We’re expanding our vision of the Peruvian,” she says. Aſter so much refinement, it’s time to slide


down into grittier Centro streets, around iconic Plaza San Martín. For hundreds of years they served as the city’s commercial hub, populated by handsome, colonial- revival office buildings, banks and the venerable, if tatty, Gran Hotel Bolívar.


May/Jun 2020 115


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98  |  Page 99  |  Page 100  |  Page 101  |  Page 102  |  Page 103  |  Page 104  |  Page 105  |  Page 106  |  Page 107  |  Page 108  |  Page 109  |  Page 110  |  Page 111  |  Page 112  |  Page 113  |  Page 114  |  Page 115  |  Page 116  |  Page 117  |  Page 118  |  Page 119  |  Page 120  |  Page 121  |  Page 122  |  Page 123  |  Page 124  |  Page 125  |  Page 126  |  Page 127  |  Page 128  |  Page 129  |  Page 130  |  Page 131  |  Page 132  |  Page 133  |  Page 134  |  Page 135  |  Page 136  |  Page 137  |  Page 138  |  Page 139  |  Page 140  |  Page 141  |  Page 142  |  Page 143  |  Page 144  |  Page 145  |  Page 146  |  Page 147  |  Page 148  |  Page 149  |  Page 150  |  Page 151  |  Page 152  |  Page 153  |  Page 154  |  Page 155  |  Page 156  |  Page 157  |  Page 158  |  Page 159  |  Page 160  |  Page 161  |  Page 162  |  Page 163  |  Page 164