RWANDA


ABOVE: Mountain gorillas in Rwanda Credit: Shutterstock


giant named Guhonda, and a bald blackback called Mr Ben. After a short but scenic trek, we


reach a clearing where we leave our bags. The trackers had located the group in a bamboo forest just ahead, which is kind of like entering a primate pub, as the shoots have an alcoholic effect. Keen to avoid a bar brawl, I stick close to Edward. “There’s one,” he whispers, as I focus my eyes on the near distance. “No, there!” he points, just a metre away, where a caouaged feale stares at me nonchalantly. We’re meant to observe a strict seven- metre distance, but sometimes the gorillas don’t abide by the rules. Over the next hour, we move


around watching a mother nursing a tiny newborn, uffy uveniles opping on their stoachs, and finally r en getting amorous, with moves best


set to a Marvin Gaye soundtrack. Eventually, the gorillas turf out into a grass clearing. It’s here we get the best view: Guhonda sitting casually on his backside, barking at the youngsters when they get out of hand, beating his chest to show who’s boss and making a sound that fuels adrenaline in all who hear it. This is one bucket-list encounter that doesn’t disappoint.


BOOK IT: Red Savannah offers six nights in Rwanda from £7,562, including full board at One&Only Nyungwe House, Cormoran Lodge in Lake Kivu, Amakoro Songa or Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge in Volcanoes National Park and the new Retreat boutique hotel in Kigali. Gorilla and chimpanzee permits are included, plus kayaking on Lake Kivu, ground transportation and return RwandAir flights. REDSAVANNAH.COM › One&Only review, page 98


68 ASPIRE FEBRUARY 2019


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