MEMBERS’ LETTERS KEEPING SNUG


We have been living in our Grade II* little cottage (two up two down) for six years and received a lot of helpful advice from our local conservation officer. We have added secondary glazing and had our black beams professionally stripped and spent time and money trying to restore it to its original state.


We have one major issue: it is hard to maintain the heat. We have central heating and a log burner.


The back of the house has a small extension and is not a problem as we have been able to insulate it, the problem is in the living room which has the original front door opening onto the pavement.


The house always starts off too cold and often ends up too hot! We would like to be able to maintain a more constant temperature. We realise it will never be as efficient as a modern house but are desperate to solve this problem.


The house frontage is made of thick brick and we have an original brick floor in the living room which opens on to the pavement. All suggestions of how to insulate or retain heat would be most welcome.


There is a series of in depth guides by Historic England on ‘Insulating Roofs’, ‘Insulating Floors’, ‘Energy Efficiency in Historic Buildings’ etc. all of which can be downloaded from their website.


Insulating attic spaces is always the first place to start (if you have not already) because heat rises and there is often space to achieve deep and effective levels of insulation in the loft.


You appear to already have achieved secondary double glazing to the windows which is good. However, it is still worth thoroughly draught-proofing the primary windows (and the external doors) as air seepage is a major cause of heat loss in old buildings.


ZERO VAT BEDSITS


The Housing Association that I am involved with has just acquired a listed building, previously used as a hotel. The Association is a registered social landlord. We wish to convert the bar area into office space and renovate the hotel rooms into bedsits, primarily for vulnerable 16-25 year olds. Can the renovation work be zero rated for VAT? Many thanks, in advance.


First off, conversion of the bar area into office space will not benefit from any VAT relief. There might be a possible way of achieving it, but only if you were letting it for commercial use (rather than, say, to a charity).


On to the main question and I can advise that zero rating applies to conversion from commercial use to residential use, for a housing association. This is subject to various conditions, some of which might seem slightly over the top. But HMRC do look at zero rating for builders with a critical eye. Following our discussion, I have checked that the conditions are fulfilled.


Contractors’ services can be zero-rated when all of the following conditions are met:


1. Your services are made to a ‘relevant housing association’ FULFILLED


2. A building is the subject of a ‘non-residential conversion’ FULFILLED


3. Your services are made ‘in the course of the conversion’ of that building FULFILLED


4. Where necessary, you hold a valid certificate N/A


5. Your services are not specifically excluded from zero rating e.g. architects FULFILLED


Hopefully this is clear, but if you need to discuss it, please let me know.


Dave Brown LPOC VAT Advisor


See new tax benefits series on page 36


Continued >> 40 Listed Heritage Magazine January/February 2020


Adding insulation to walls and floors is always much more challenging in listed buildings. It can be achieved in some situations, but the cost is relatively high and the returns relatively low. In most cases it is unacceptable to add internal insulation to the walls because of the impact it has on the character of the building, not least where the thickness of the internal insulation meets the window and door openings and other architectural features such as fireplaces.


Floors can be insulated but loss of the brick floor would almost certainly see an objection from the local planning authority. It would be very disruptive, but not out of the question, if you were to excavate, insulate and relay the brick floor.


I regret that this does not offer much direction or hope if your aim is to bring the building up to modern standards.


Peter Bell LPOC Conservation Advisor


WHAT GUTTER PROFILE?


Would you have any guidance on what type and shape of guttering would have been on a Georgian farmhouse? I’m assuming cast iron but struggling to decide on a profile. Any help would be much appreciated.


Cast iron gutters were only introduced during the 18th century. Prior to that lead gutters were used on higher status buildings and no gutters at all on lower status buildings. If in doubt, or if there is no evidence of what was there historically, it would be safest to opt for a standard half-round gutter section. Only very rarely were more decorative ogee profiles used during the Georgian period and hardly ever on farmhouses.


Peter Bell, LPOC Conservation Advisor


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