‘waterproof’ coat. A genuine Mackintosh, however, is always tailored from rubberised or rubber laminated cloth.
Named after its Scottish inventor, Charles Macintosh, the rubberised material was originally patented for tarpaulins and the like. Nevertheless, tailors seized the innovative cloth in order to make raincoats. Early examples brought problems with smell, stiffness, an aversion to hot weather and leaky seams. Macintosh developed the material and conceived of a process to seal the seams, thus inventing the first true waterproof overcoat.
Trench Coat Garment of heroes, the trench coat was first introduced as an alternative to the heavy greatcoats donned by officers of the Great War. Both Aquascutum and Thomas Burberry, the pioneer of gabardine fabric, claim its invention.
In design, the typical British trench coat is double-breasted, ten-buttoned and fully belted with raglan sleeves, cuff straps, epaulets and, often, D-rings. It is widely considered that the D-Ring was used for the attachment of hand grenades, though it is now thought that the rings actually held water bottles, map cases and swords.
The trench coat can be found in a number of different materials, including cotton drill or poplin, wool gabardine and leather. The trench coat is typically functional as a windbreaker or raincoat and is not designed for warmth. Therefore, when purchasing, seek a trench with a detachable interlining; it will greatly extend the coat’s effective service.
Duffle Coat The duffle (or duffel) coat is constructed from thick, coarse wool called duffel. It takes its name from the Belgium province where the material originates, Duffelzandhoven.
The most common style, favoured by the British naval officers for whom it was made, is single-breasted, three-quarter length and wool-lined, with a hood and buttoned neck strap, flapped side pockets and is fastened with four wooden toggles and loops of leather or rope. These fastenings were designed to be easily worked whilst wearing gloves – a necessity with the harsh weather at sea.
The Barbour The epitome of English country-wear is, undoubtedly, the Barbour. Typically hip-length (although the company, J. Barbour & sons, produces a variety of styles), the iconic raincoat is constructed from a hard-wearing, waxed cotton cloth. Ideal for rural pursuits such as hunting and fishing, the paraffin-based wax coating begets the Barbour’s wind and water resistant properties.
Functional, comfortable and incredibly durable, the Barbour is typically found with a detachable tartan lining and a leather or corduroy collar.
office@finecity.co.uk To advertise call 01362 288084 19
PERSONAL STYLE AND THE INTENTION FOR WHICH HE DONS IT
APPAREL CONCEALED BENEATH, DENOTING THE WEARER’S
THE GENTLEMAN’S OVERCOAT SHOULD ALSO INDICATE THE NATURE OF THE
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