| Fashion
Overcoats A Gentleman’s Guide
With winter encroaching, I feel it is the perfect time to focus on the gentleman’s overcoat. The prime function of the overcoat is, of course, to protect the wearer from increment weather. The shielding properties of this garment can also be transferred into a psychological defensive layer between the wearer and the outside world. Every man can relate to the reluctance to shed this cocoon when found in an uncongenial situation. This being the case, the overcoat holds prominence in the wardrobe of gentlemen across the globe, even where it is not necessarily a typically functional item.
Socially, when a gentleman adorns his overcoat he is signalling his intention to leave. When he disrobes he is declaring his arrival.
The gentleman’s overcoat should also indicate the nature of the apparel concealed beneath, denoting the wearer’s personal style and the intention for which he dons it. Of course, there is nothing intrinsically wrong with only ever sporting one beloved piece of outerwear; however, this renounces a considerable opportunity for sartorial self-expression. An overcoat appropriate for the occasion is a true statement of style. It is, therefore, beneficial to have at least two overcoats of contrasting styles in one’s wardrobe.
When purchasing a new overcoat, it is essential to ascertain the correct fit. To do so, ensure you are wearing a suit jacket when fitting. Sleeves should
cover both the shirt and suit cuffs. Overcoats that extend to the knee and beyond hold the cleanest lines and are also less prone to crumpling at the seat.
Below is a selection of classic overcoats of which every gentleman should be aware.
Crombie The Crombie overcoat, particularly in dark navy, is the quintessential English town overcoat. Tailored predominantly in thick wool, the Crombie is generally seen in single-breasted, three-quarter length form. Its versatility sees its inclusion in many a formal wear collection. The overcoat is named after the first company to produce it (J&J Crombie); however, the name is now attributed to the style as opposed to the manufacturer.
Chesterfield The most formal of classic town coats, the Chesterfield rose to prominence at the beginning of the nineteenth century. Based largely on the Victorian frock coat, this garment is generally a single-breasted (though, double-breasted versions can be found), full-length, fly-fronted overcoat, tapered in the body, with centre rear vent, set-in sleeves and a velvet collar. The coat’s formal nature sees it work best in navy, charcoal or black patternless wool.
Named after the sixth Earl of Chesterfield, this particular overcoat was a favourite of the Regency dandies of the early 1800s.
The addition of the velvet collar, as aesthetically pleasing as it is, was, in fact, for practical use: it was designed to deal with the soiling of collars in a time when gentlemen wore their hair long, being easier to remove and replace than the entire collar.
British Warm The British Warm takes its styling from the greatcoats adorned by British officers in the First World War. Always double-breasted, these coats were shaped and tailored to fall just above the knee, with six buttons (three functional), peaked lapels and epaulets.
However, it is the cloth from which the British Warm is made that characterises it: a heavy, slightly fleecy, taupe-coloured material, woven in Melton Mowbary, Leicestershire. Modern versions can be found with slightly more length and with the epaulets removed.
18 Fine City Magazine 2010
Covert Coat The word covert comes from the French couvert, a shady place or thicket. Closely related to the Chesterfield, this coat’s design lies within its hunting origins. Cut just above the knee, the classic body is single-breasted, straight-cut and fly-fronted, with two side pockets, ticket pocket and velvet collar.
It is the cloth from which it is made that sets it apart from the Chesterfield: a tightly woven, durable twill (sometimes waterproofed). The way in which the cloth is woven gives it a slightly mottled effect. It is primarily found in shades of brown and mid-grey.
The covert coat is also decorated with four parallel seams (known as railroading) at the cuff and hem, originally added to reinforce the coat against the wear and tear of countryside pursuits.
Polo Coat The polo is the classic American overcoat; however, its origins are entirely British.
It began life as a simple camel-hair, blanket- like wrap coat, designed to be thrown over the shoulders of Edwardian polo players as they waited between chukkers (hence its original name, the ‘wait coat’).
In the 1920s, when English polo players first visited America, it caught the attention of the wealthy Gatsby set who quickly adopted it as their own.
The polo coat is double-breasted, patch-pocketed and half-belted. It is typically made of bactrian (two-humped) camel-hair. Light, warm and luxuriously elegant, much of its popularity stems from its appeal and adaptability.
Mackintosh The Mackintosh (or Macintosh, Mack or Mac) has, in recent years, become a generic term for any
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