eye treatments
the eyes have it
Everybody’s eyes have a different story to tell – whether it’s what they got up to the night before (bags anyone?) through to the tell-tale signs of ageing, such as Crow’s Feet and droopy lids, the eyes often reveal farmore than we bargained for. So with this in mind, how can you ensure that your client’s peepers send out the rightmessage for them?
The first stage is to understand how and why the eyes are so vulnerable to daily assaults: “The skin around the eye area is thinner andmore delicate than anywhere else. Continual free radical assault breaks down collagen and elastin fibres that help keep skin smooth and firm.Tissue in this delicate area also has fewer oil glands to help block penetration of topically-applied products or chemicals fromthe environment,” explains Sally Penford, EducationManager for Dermalogica UK and Ireland.
“Combine this with decades of squinting in the sun, late nights, lack of sleep and inadequate environmental protection and you have the tell-tale signs of eye area ageing,” she adds.
The Koreesa Group concurs: “The fragile zone around the eyes is a visible reflection of our tiredness, stress and sleepless
nights.The inner eye contour contains bloodmicro vessels which are part of an underlying vascular network. Slow microcirculation results in less oxygenated blood, hence a bluish appearance which contributes to the formation of dark circles, along with pigments and iron in the epidermis and dermis that are created when haemoglobin is released. Over time the dark circles become permanent and are very difficult to eliminate. Blood cell leakage is a strong factor in the formation of dark circles.”
turning back the clock
Of course, it’s all well and good acknowledging these issues once the damage has occurred but is it really possible to turn back the clock for our eyes?
“Whether the concern is lines and wrinkles, dark shadowing or puffiness, as the old saying goes prevention is better than cure. So like all good skin care habits, if clients start early with an eye treatment creamthey can prevent premature deterioration of the vulnerable skin around the eye area. But even if they didn’t start early enough and panic is setting in, introducing an eye creamat any point into their routine willmake a difference to the skin around the eyes,” Sally reassures us.
“Critical elements in your [clients’] daily routines [should] include cleansing, exfoliating,moisturising and SPF. Using a moisturiser as an eye treatment is risky; somemoisturising formulas can protect the skin around the eye orbit provided they are not too oil-rich or contain heavy mineral oils, as these willmake eyes puffy.
“Overmany years of regular use, heavy oils frominappropriate products (like baby oil to remove eyemake-up and petroleum jelly to protect) can accumulate in the tear ducts causing under eye bags. Some cases have shown that up to a teaspoon of oily product residue per eye has been removed during cosmetic surgery to correct severe eye bags.
“[Today], lighter weight eye formulas reduce this risk, and are generallymore comfortable to wear.Your [clients’] moisturiser also needs to be artificial fragrance free with a balanced level of actives appropriate for thismore sensitive and delicate tissue, to avoid developing dermatitis or suffering watery eyes,” Sally adds.
“[Furthermore], if your [clients’] daily moisturiser contains a built-in SPF you may also want to check whether chemical or physical sunscreens are being used in the formula; chemical sunscreens (including avobenzone, octinoxate, octisalate and oxybenzone) can sting and promote streaming eyes, particularly if your clients already have genetically sensitive skin or are prone to hayfever and allergies.
“Eye creams, gels and serums, on the other hand, are carefully formulated to protect and treat in a suitable weight product,” advises Sally. “Active ingredients like vitamins (including highly active retinoids), botanicals, peptides and SPF’s
(physical sunscreens such asTitanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide) are sympathetically selected tominimise sensitivity potential.”
Sharon Cass, Brand and Education Manager for SkinBrands@ Cosmeceuticals agrees: “Themain aimof an eye treatment is to rehydrate the skin within the deeper layers of the skin thereby increasing dermal volume, reinforcing and smoothing the delicate skin without creating puffiness. GentleAHAs (particularly lactic as it stimulates HyaluronicAcid production) and botanical antioxidant ingredients plump, hydrate and protect the skin. Firming and lifting treatments are also extremely popular and are great before a night out. Ideally treatments and homecare should be water based so not to overwhelmthe skin with oils creating puffiness.”
Turn the page to see a vast selection of some of the latest eye treatment products to hit themarket…
Introducing an eye creaminto your clients’ skin care routinewillmake a difference to the skin around the eyes.
74 GUILD NEWS
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