sandramcclumphawrites
the trend of tanning How does uv-free tanning work? SandraMcClumpha explains
Tanning first became fashionable when famous designer Coco Chanel returned froma holiday in the French Riviera with a sun- kissed and healthy look.
This, among other events, began the association of a golden glow with health, wealth and style and led to an entire industry revolving around achieving the perfect tan.
Sun tanning occurs in the epidermis, which ismade up of layers, with the deepest called the StratumBasale which is where the reaction to exposure to UV light occurs (indoors or outdoors).
About 5%of the cells in the epidermis are melanocytes and when these are exposed to ultra-violet B light (short wave ultra-violet) melanocytes producemelanin – the pigment which is ultimately responsible for a tan. The pinkishmelanin travels up through the epidermis and is absorbed by other skin cells.When exposed to ultra-violet A light (longer wave), themelanin oxidises or darkens. This darkening is the skin’s way of trying to protect the body frombeing damaged by toomuch UV exposure.
Following on fromthe popularity of a sun tan it didn’t take long for companies to recognise the opportunity to create alternative options for this tan obsessed generation. This led to the introduction of uv-free tanning products to themarket that could turn even the palest of skin tones a sunkissed colour in an instant.
how does self-tanning work?
The initial self-tan products brought to market weremerely skin stains that provided a temporary colour to the surface of the skin. These products were developed further when Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) was approved by the FDA for use within self- tanners. DHA is an ingredient naturally derived fromplant sources which, when applied onto the skin, creates a chemical reaction with the amino acids in the stratum corneumto produce a darkening effect.
SandraMcClumpha is Global Fake Bake Consultant. t: 08448 56 57 58
w:
www.fakebakesalons.co.uk @fakebakeunited
These initial self-tan products were very basic and left skin with unnatural results that providedmore of an orange tone than brown, with a distinct unpleasant fragrance. Within time, cosmetic companies found a way to produce better results (browner, less orange) and amore natural looking colour using higher quality DHA.
Additional research discovered an ingredient called Erythrulose which also reacts with the amino acids in the skin’s surface to turn the skin brown. Unlike DHA, Erythrulose promotes a slower development process. Erythrulose used on its own, even applying daily, would never give you a dark tan but when combined with DHA, it has been clinically proven to give you the optimum tan. Slowing down the self-tan process, these ingredients work together to take the tan deeper into the skin which willmake the tan last longer and fademore evenly. Self- tans that have both ingredients are far superior to tans that only contain one of these ingredients.
Other specialist ingredients are also occasionally added to tanning products to promote additional skin benefits such as skin plumpingMatrixyl-3000 or the intenselymoisturising Shea Butter. For the best possible results always remember that themore premiumthe ingredients, themore premiumthe results.When choosing a self- tan product for your salon it is essential to check the ingredients as even though you or one of your therapists are applying the self- tan perfectly, if the quality of the product you are using is not premiumthe client’s tan will patch and break up on the skin as the tan fades.
how can a tan be extended?
By encouraging your clients to exfoliate before their self-tan application and also weekly, they willmaintain the condition of their skin and prolong the life of the tan. The use of an exfoliator prior to tanning not only removes oils and perfumes fromthe surface of the skin that repel the tan but also buffs off any dead skin cells to ensure the most flawless surface for tan application.
In addition to creating the perfect skin base for tanning it is important to recognise that the better the condition of the skin the longer than tan will last, somoisturising daily is key. All reputable tanning brands offer oil freemoisturisers and additional products that are specifically designed to complement their tanning range and optimise their tanning systems.
what is the future of tanning?
Since the initial introduction of quality self- tan products to themarket, tanning has progressed to offer awide variety of productswith numerous applicationmethods that cater to all skin types, skin tones and lifestyles. These products vary greatly in price but definitely exercise the saying ‘you getwhat you pay for’.Applied at home or professionally these products provide multiple advantages to your clients such as depth of colour, speed of development and a higher quality of ingredients that provide additional skin benefits.
Looking towards the future of tanning it is clear that self-tans will continue to advance in every way, withmulti-purpose products becoming essential as people continue to becomemore andmore time short.
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