F&B
Rum with a view T
he chances are that the first thing you think of when someone says ‘rum’ is a cocktail. Rum’s reputation as a party spirit may have hampered its appreciation by connoisseurs. For many years, rum has
been touted as ‘the next big thing,’ however, perhaps because of its romantic, piratical, buccaneering heritage, the common perception is that rum lacks the gravitas of single malt and the glitz of cognac. What rum does have is adaptability and range. This means that whoever you are making a drink for, you should be able to find a very good rum that fits the bill. Remember the Caribbean climate results in accelerated ageing of spirits; a 15-year-old rum might be the equivalent in terms of maturity of a Scotch single malt three times that age… The history of El Dorado Rums can be traced back
to 1670, when local sugar cane producers amalgamated under the guidance of early European explorers. Produced in the county of Demerara, Guyana, El Dorado preserves time-honoured production techniques which contribute to the rum’s distinctive flavour profiles; the distillery operates the only remaining wooden Coffey still in the world as well as the only two wooden pot stills. Provenance and craftsmanship are key; the rums are produced only from local sugar cane and aged in small American oak casks prior to being blended by the master distiller. Thereafter, rums are left to marry for at least three months ensuring balance and harmony. The three-year-old (40%) was designed specifically for cocktails and is charcoal filtered to remove colour but retain flavour; citrus, pineapple and vanilla nose leads to thick and creamy mouthfeel with a palate of tropical fruit and butterscotch. El Dorado three-year-old is perfect for daiquiris and mojitos but works in most other white spirit-based cocktails. The five-year-old (40%) is a
12 JUNE 2013
CI’s drinks expert, Kentucky Colonel, and Master of the Quaich Marcin Miller says rum is the new black, and who are we to disagree?
traditional Demerara-style mixing rum and works brilliantly in cocktails – especially punches – and simple mixed drinks; dried fruit and coffee on the nose, followed by a multi-layered palate of marmalade and toasted coconut with a vanilla finish. My personal favourite, the 15-year-old (43%), was launched over 20 years ago as one of the first sipping rums. It has been awarded the Trophy for Best Rum in the World by the International Wine & Spirits Competition a record seven times; alluring notes of espresso, almonds, bitter chocolate and vanilla on the nose, it is deep, rich and luxurious with plenty of fruit balanced by oaky spiciness. This rum would satisfy the most discerning of single malt enthusiasts… Located in the Nassau valley in St Elizabeth, Jamaica, Appleton Estate distils traditional (copper) pot still rums, matured in American oak barrels; all Appleton estate rums have been produced from the single 11,000 acre estate since 1749 and the entire process, from grass to glass, is carried out on the estate. Appleton Estate rums are a favourite with the world’s top bartenders. The Reserve 8 year old (43%) was created as a
stepping stone into the sipping rums in the range; a blend of 20 different rums of varying types and ages, it combines column and pot still rums. This rum has brown sugar, honey and rich spice notes on the nose with orange and vanilla highlights. The palate is sweet and honeyed with a satin mouth feel, leading to a long, lightly spicy finish. It works particularly well in a classic daiquiri. Appleton Estate Extra 12 year old (43%) deserves to be enjoyed on its own; the extended maturation has resulted in a rum of bold character and spicy complexity. It has a mature nose of walnut, nutmeg and coffee. The buttery palate of creamy brown sugar leads to a beguiling, bittersweet finish. It pairs brilliantly with dark chocolate. For something a little different, Pink Pigeon (40%), named after an endangered species of bird indigenous to Mauritius is a single estate rum from the Medine distillery; it is infused for six months with hand-pollinated Bourbon vanilla, added orange peel provides citrus freshness and rare orchids deliver distinctive floral notes.
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