SKIN LIPID MATRIX WHAT IS?
What is... THE SKIN LIPID MATRIX?
The skin lipid matrix is an important part of the protective stratum corneum, as Dr Katerina Steventon explains
Dr Katerina Steventon, Innovation Consultant to the Personal Care Industry The stratum corneum extracellular
matrix in the skin’s outermost layer plays a key role in the barrier function as a protective layer against the environment. In the bricks-and-mortar model of the stratum corneum, the extracellular lipid matrix represents the mortar composed of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids, in a 1:1:1 molar ratio. The intercellular domains filled by the lipids form the most important pathway for penetration of substances across the skin. These lipids are organised into unique multi- lamellar structures, important for the permeability of the skin barrier, measured as transepidermal water loss (TEWL[1]
of this barrier contributes to skin conditions, such as dry xerotic skin and atopic dermatitis[2]
.
Professor Anthony Rawlings stated that the complexity and individual roles of these lipids require far more research. Healthy skin barrier requires the correct stratum corneum lipid lamellar architecture with lipid bilayers in a specific conformation. Further, the presence of long-chain ceramides as either free or covalently bound lipids, greater quantities of phytosphingosine-containing ceramides and a high stratum corneum lipid/protein ratio have been reported as beneficial for optimal barrier function[3]
.
Dutch research led by Professor Joke Bouwstra from Leiden University has confirmed two coexisting crystalline lamellar phases: the short periodicity phase (SPP) and the long periodicity phase (LPP) with an arrangement indicative of a particular, well-defined placement of specific lipid molecules within the three-layers organised in a repeated pattern[4,5]
. The LPP is unique to the
skin barrier affecting the strength of the barrier function. Also ‘lateral packing’ of the lipids affects the permeability of the skin[6]
.
Skin care provides emollient, occlusive and hydrating properties to the stratum corneum. However, not all moisturisers affect the barrier
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favourably. Some can disturb, even induce inflammation and increase skin sensitivity. Repairing the barrier with application of epidermal lipids leads to restoration of skin health. Also in a chronologically aged skin with delayed barrier and a decreased epidermal lipid synthesis (particularly cholesterol synthesis), application of a mixture of cholesterol, ceramides and essential/non-essential free fatty acids (FFAs) in an equimolar ratio allows for a normal barrier recovery[7]
.
Moreover, a 3:1:1:1 mixture with cholesterol as the dominant lipid further accelerates barrier recovery. Moisturisers offer far more than simple skin hydration to overcome dry skin[8]
.
Understanding the complexity and impact of the lipid matrix on TEWL is essential for all formulators, even though consumers can only experience changes through their senses
References 1. Alexander H, Brown S, Danby S, Flohr C. Research Techniques Made Simple: Transepidermal Water Loss Measurement as a Research Tool. J Invest Dermatol. 2018;138(11):2295-2300.e1. doi:10.1016/j.jid.2018.09.001 2. Bhattacharya N, Sato WJ, Kelly A, Ganguli-Indra G, Indra AK. Epidermal Lipids: Key Mediators of Atopic Dermatitis Pathogenesis. Trends Mol Med. 2019;25(6):551-562.
). Perturbation
doi:10.1016/
j.molmed.2019.04.001 3. Moore DJ, Rawlings AV. The chemistry, function and (patho)physiology of stratum corneum barrier ceramides. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2017;39(4):366-372. doi:10.1111/ics.12399 4. Mojumdar EH, Gooris GS, Barlow DJ, Lawrence MJ, Deme B, Bouwstra JA. Skin lipids: localization of ceramide and fatty acid in the unit cell of the long periodicity phase. Biophys J. 2015;108(11):2670- 2679. doi:10.1016/j.bpj.2015.04.030 5. Mojumdar EH, Gooris GS, Groen D, et al. Stratum corneum lipid matrix: Location of acyl ceramide and cholesterol in the unit cell of the long periodicity phase. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2016;1858(8):1926- 1934. doi:10.1016/
j.bbamem.2016.05.006 6. Beddoes CM, Gooris GS, Bouwstra JA. Preferential arrangement of lipids in the long-periodicity phase of a stratum corneum matrix model. J Lipid Res. 2018;59(12):2329-2338. doi:10.1194/jlr.M087106 7. Zettersten EM, Ghadially R, Feingold KR, Crumrine D, Elias PM. Optimal ratios of topical stratum corneum lipids improve barrier recovery in chronologically aged skin. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1997;37(3 Pt 1):403-408. doi:10.1016/ s0190-9622(97)70140-3 8. Rawlings AV. Molecular basis for stratum corneum maturation and moisturization. Br J Dermatol. 2014;171 Suppl 3:19-28. doi:10.1111/bjd.13303
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