CLEAN BEAUTY WHITE PAPER
1. Sustainable & ethical sourcing Trust is at the core of any successful consumer relationship, and building trust starts with transparency about what is in a product and why. According to Edelman, only 34% of people surveyed trust most of the brands they buy or use.
Ensuring transparent ingredient supply chains is a critical strategic decision to address distrust. For example, Aprinnova has deepened its commitment to sustainable and ethical sourcing by using Bonsucro Chain of Custody certified sugarcane to manufacture its ingredients like Neossance Squalane. This certification ensures sustainability claims along the entire sugarcane supply chain are traceable from farmer to end user.
Over the past 15 years, Bonsucro – a global non-profit with the goal of sustainable producer communities and consistent supply chains – has been certifying sugarcane for 250 members. Bonsucro’s platform is built on two pillars: a production standard and a chain of custody standard. The production standard is based on metrics for the sustainable farming and milling of sugarcane, while the chain of custody standard ensures the traceability of sustainability claims along the supply chain.
Bonsucro certification is making an impact. A recent study of certified Brazilian sugarcane producers showed that certified mills reduced GHG emissions by 31% at the farm level, reduced diesel consumption by 25% and decreased accident rates by 80%. In addition, the wages of Bonsucro-certified farm employees were 20% above the national minimum wage.
2. Biotechnology makes sustainability & performance available to all Many consumers equate ‘natural’ with ‘clean’. However, not all ingredients from natural resources are pure, sustainable or backed by performance data. Rare plants and animals may provide valuable extracts and active ingredients but harm nature. One example is squalane, which for decades was derived from shark livers. Biotechnology has paved the way to make clean beauty ingredients available to all. For example, Neossance Squalane, which offers a sustainable alternative to squalane derived from shark livers, is made using a unique fermentation process that leverages yeast and sugarcane. Sugarcane is sustainable because it requires no water irrigation, uses significantly less land than traditional sources and is one of the most regenerative plants in the world. Importantly, brands do not have to sacrifice performance. Studies have demonstrated Neossance Squalane improves skin smoothness and cell turnover, restores the skin’s barrier and promotes a more youthful appearance. In a clinical study with 30 women aged 40-60,
cosmeticsbusiness.com
Consumers are acutely aware of their role in making the world a better place and are voting with their wallets
100% Neossance Squalane was applied twice daily for 28 days resulting in a 28% reduction in roughness.
Squalane also supports cell turnover. In a clinical study of ten volunteers aged 25-56, participants applied products twice daily to the upper arm. The intensity of residual staining was monitored daily under Wood’s Lamp illumination until all sites were no longer fluorescent; 100% Neossance Squalane significantly increased cell renewal by 34%, as compared with an untreated control and a placebo.
Squalane also offers moisturisation benefits as a go-to emollient. In a clinical study, 12 men and women aged 25-61 applied 10% Neossance Squalane in a cream formula. Within one hour, skin hydration was improved by 51%. After 24 hours, a 17% increase in skin hydration remained. In a clinical study performed on a panel of 40 women (age range: 37-60), application of a Neossance Squalane plus vitamin C rose oil twice a day for 28 days demonstrated a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles such as crows feet, measured by the Primos Lite system (figure 1). Squalane had a smoothing effect and reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on crow’s feet.
Neossance Squalane also supports a healthy skin microbiome. In a clinical study of 17 panelists, participants used 100% squalane as a face oil two times daily for 14 days. Microbe samples were collected on the cheeks and T-zone at baseline (day 0), day 7 and day 14. These samples were sequenced using 16S gene-based
Figure 1 Neossance Squalane moisturises the skin, improves skin smoothness and cell turnover
Reduces appearance of fine lines
Before
After
Results Smoothing effect and reduction in appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on crow’s feet (characterised by decrease in the average roughness, relief and amplitude).
Protocol Clinical study performed on a panel of 40 women (ages 37-60). Squalane + vitamin C rose oil used twice a day, for 28 days.
June 2021 25
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64
