WHITE PAPER CLEAN BEAUTY
amplicon to characterise skin bacterial communities. Product usage was associated with a 17.9% increase in diversity (measured by Hill diversity number) and no signs of instability. In addition, the skin microbiome composition was stable through product usage – in other words, product usage did not change an individual’s naturally occurring microbiome community. Although diversity increased, the microbiome composition remained stable. An Adonis analysis – a common tool for investigating compositional change in microbiomes – has shown that there was no directional change in the participants’ microbiota through time.
3. Circular & reduced waste beauty The cosmetics industry accounts for 120 billion units of packaging produced globally. Embracing solid format applications helps new product designers reduce packaging and water in applications. Aprinnova’s SimplySolid facilitates solid format applications by simplifying the product development process and offering an easy tool to make solid applications. It combines sugarcane-derived Neossance Squalane and Hemisqualane in a proprietary polymer system to provide skin therapeutic effects in a solid form. The innovation reduces the need for plastic packaging and simplifies and accelerates solid application development.
In a consumer preference study with 100 participants, users applied a moisturising bar formulated with SimplySolid on difficult, dry areas of their body in place of their typical body moisturising product at least once a day for seven days; 70% of respondents said the bar was easy to apply, 83% said their skin felt hydrated, 79% said their skin felt nourished and 82% said their skin felt soft and smooth.
Embracing circular beauty ingredients can also reduce waste. The circular economy is based on incorporating waste or leftovers while still promoting economic growth. For example, Biosilica is derived from discarded sugarcane ashes and has similar or better performance characteristics compared with industry benchmarks for use in creams, lotions, foundations and more. Sugarcane ashes are a byproduct of the sugarcane juicing used in fermentation. Ashes are created after bagasse is burned and used for electricity generation. Biosilica is made after these ashes undergo a clean filtration and purification process. In a study with 52 participants, consumers tested two pressed powder formulations: one with Biosilica and one with a benchmark specialty silica. Users were asked to use each product for three days and then switch to the other. The use of each product was randomised so that 50% of participants used Biosilica first and 50% of participants used benchmark silica first. Biosilica matched the benchmark silica in many
26 June 2021
Figure 2 Consumers and experts perceive equivalence of Biosilica to benchmark in oil absorption, soft focus, lubricity and blurring characteristics
Immediately after application Gloss
Amount of residue Wetness Roughness
90.0 80.0 70.0 60.0 50.0 40.0 30.0 20.0 10.0 0.0
Whitening Dusty look
Skin texture visibility Slipperiness Stickiness* Tautness Occlusion
Benchmark Biosilica
Consumer satisfaction of translucent presssed powder with silica This product helps even out my skin
This product helps reduce the look of shine This product blends evenly into my skin My skin is more luminous with this product This product does not settle in skin creases This product gives my skin a smooth texture This product instantly absorbs oil This product looks natural on my skin
This product makes my pores less visible This product helps control shine This product is silky and lightweight
50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 Benchmark
Biosilica
claims such as evening out skin, controlling shine and instantly absorbing oil (figure 2). Biosilica outperformed traditional silica in reducing the look of shine, blending evenly into skin, and being silky and lightweight; 92% of respondents agreed the Biosilica formula helps reduce the look of shine and 90% agreed the Biosilica product blends evenly into skin.
CONCLUSION
The beauty renaissance is one of the most exciting developments in beauty because it represents the convergence of macro trends leading to a clean future: consumer demand for clean beauty, brand leaders embracing clean principles and new technologies making clean beauty cost-effective and accessible. As more brands incorporate the key tenets of clean beauty and leverage strategies like transparency, sustainable sourcing and circularity, we will see a cycle of sustainability and performance driving success, and success driving better beauty for a better planet
Authors John Toner & Spencer Wong, Aprinnova
www.aprinnova.com
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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