NOBEL SCIENCE INGREDIENTS
capacity of glycerin, for instant and long-lasting hydration.
PROTEIN DEGRADATION
Noble Panacea (right), the brainchild of Nobel Prize winner for chemistry Fraser Stoddart (above), uses organic molecular vessel technology in its formulations
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It’s not good enough just to have a nice texture, or pleasant smell, you have to stand out with your ingredients
peptide (acetyl hexapeptide-8) to target expression wrinkles and act as an alternative to Botox.
Used topically, Argireline is designed to interfere with the complex protein system involved in muscle contraction to minimise the appearance of wrinkles. Lubrizol claims that in in vitro tests, wrinkle volume decreased by 20% and wrinkle length diminished by 15%.
AQUAPORINS
In 2003, American biochemist Peter Agre won the Nobel Prize for chemistry for a groundbreaking discovery that is incredibly relevant to skin care. He got to the root of water distribution between cells by discovering that proteins form microscopic channels in cell membranes which facilitate the transport of water and other molecules from cell to cell. These channels are called aquaporins.
As consumers are constantly demanding innovative ways to hydrate skin, the discovery of aquaporins is well suited to the beauty industry. As a result, BASF developed Hydagen Aquaporin, an active ingredient that is said to stimulate the formulation of aquaporin water channels in skin cells. Aquaporins within the body are made of highly concentrated glyceryl glucoside and, according to BASF, clinical studies have found that Hydagen Aquaporin boosts the moisturising
cosmeticsbusiness.com
Swiss ingredients manufacturer Givaudan based its Megassane launch on the 2004 Nobel Prize for chemistry. Awarded jointly to Aaron Ciechanover, Avram Hershko and Irwin Rose, the chemists contributed to greater knowledge of how cells can regulate the presence of certain cell proteins by marking unwanted proteins with a label consisting of the polypeptide ubiquitin; the unwanted proteins are then broken down. Their research helped us to better understand DNA repair, gene transcription and the quality control of newly-produced proteins. Givaudan Active Beauty’s Megassane is inspired by this research into proteasomes – protein complexes which degrade unneeded/damaged proteins – and is claimed to act as a ‘natural highlighter’. Made from specific lipids from red microalgae, the ingredient is said to stimulate the skin proteasome in both a preventive and curative effect under serious UV exposure. As a consequence, the enzymatic activities of the proteasome are restored, inducing a direct detoxification of cells and skin to reverse dull skin appearance.
AUTOPHAGY Japanese biologist Yoshinori Ohsumi was awarded the 2016 Nobel Prize in physiology or medicine for explaining the biological mechanism of autophagy, the body’s method of ‘self-eating’ damaged cells in order to regenerate healthier ones. The concept emerged in the 1960s, but it was Ohsumi’s experiments in the 1990s that demonstrated the importance of autophagy dysfunctions in a number of pathologies, as well as in the ageing process.
While disrupted autophagy has been linked to Parkinson’s disease, type 2 diabetes and other disorders more commonly associated with the elderly, Silab focused on how his work could be applied to the skin ageing process. The French cosmetics ingredients manufacturer is said to have spent a decade researching the skin and autophagy. The active ingredient Celldetox, originally unveiled in 2006, was the result of this work and is designed to improve the radiance of tired skin, as well as limit the signs of ageing, by supporting the cell’s regeneration process. Last year, Silab rolled out its latest ingredient related to the Nobel Prize research. Made from black oats and spiny restharrow, Agreynist is said to offer a natural solution to greying hair. The patented active is said to enable grey hair to return to its natural colour by reducing the formation of free radicals, but also by activating cell detoxification induced by autophagy
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