Australia
country’s independent wealth — and, later, its political independence. Australia isn’t generally thought of as a heritage
destination, but it has a history that continually surprises. The aim of doing a road trip from Melbourne was to get out into the bush, perhaps enjoy some regional food and wine, and spot a kangaroo or seven along the way. But, at every stop, tales from the past batle to the fore. This is most definitely the case in Echuca,
arguably the finest town on the mighty Murray. Australia’s longest river is the lifeblood for much of the country. The farms in its basin are reliant on it for irrigation, and given that there’s not too much fertile land elsewhere, this means the Riverina is Australia’s foodbowl. Echuca’s position as the closest point on the
Murray to Melbourne route made it strategically important, and in the 19th century, it was the third largest port in Australia. Food and wool would be taken to Melbourne by rail from there, and goods would go the other way, distributed along the Murray using paddle steamers — which, as a key ingredient of the past, have been remarkably well preserved. They depart from the gigantic wooden wharf, built in 1865 and stretching over three levels so that it can still be useful whatever level the river’s at. The old town itself is laced with rogueish old
pubs that wear their past as illegal drinking dens, complete with smugglers’ tunnels, well. The steamers are used for cruises rather than freight these days; the last one built for the riverboat trade was the PS Alexander Arbuthnot in 1923. This grand old dame has been restored, and chugs lugubriously along the Murray, with one poor soul downstairs shovelling coal to keep the noisy, clanking engine suitably fed. He doesn’t get to appreciate the — typically
Australian — scenery. The banks of the Murray are lined with glorious gum trees: bare, ghostly,
Clockwise from left: the historic port of Echuca; Beechworth post office; attendee of the annual Ned Kelly weekend in Beechworth; Milawa mustard
countrybycountry.com | ABTA Magazine 49
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76
