| 48 hours | Durban
South Africa’s relaxed oceanfront city doesn’t have to try hard to show off its charms, says Andy Davis
Being South Africa’s third city, Durban often flies below the radar, while tourists prioritise Johannesburg’s bustle or Cape Town’s glamour. But Durban has plenty of charms. It tends to operate in a tropical east coast manner, defined by the unofficial motto of ‘why try harder’, an ethos that permeates almost everything. Modern Durban is defined by its three main
population groups: Zulu, Indian and white South African. Spread alongside the Indian Ocean and rolling on the undulating topography, it segues fluidly from old colonial mansions to rundown tenements, to suburban plots and shiny malls.
DAY ONE
MORNING: Book a surf lesson, as early mornings in Durban tend to bring with them classic surf conditions. Drop in to the Surf Rider’s Cafe for breakfast. Hire a bike and meander up the
full ‘Golden Mile’ (actually 3.7 miles) of flat, paved and manicured ocean- side park all the way to the banks of the Umgeni River.
AFTERNOON: Durban has the largest Indian community outside of India. Spice Emporium, behind the Promenade on Monty Naicker Road, is a supermarket that focuses on Indian products, with a cafeteria specialising in well-priced vegetarian street food.
Nightclub on Florida Road. Above: Umhlanga Rocks beach at daybreak
EVENING: Head to The Butcher Boys, a classic South African steak restaurant, on the popular Florida Road strip of bars, clubs and restaurants. End the night at The Chairman on Mahatma Gandhi Road in the Point Waterfront, a dandy paradise where finely manicured and tailored youth flash their parent’s credit cards, while captains of industry swill single malt whisky.
DAY TWO
MORNING: Wake early and head west to the Krantzkloof Nature Reserve for yoga under the African hardwoods (
surfsupyoga.co.za), followed by a hike up through the jungle to the Molweni River falls. On your way back down, check in at the Stoker’s Arms at the old Kloof railway station for a greasy breakfast to balance out all that good work.
AFTERNOON: Head up to Umhlanga for some quality North Coast beach action. Intermittently, wade out into the refreshing waters of the Indian Ocean before returning to the beach. Roll, bake and repeat. Follow the setting sun west a few
hundred metres to the snazzy but relaxed Oyster Box Hotel, where they serve some of Durban’s finest cocktails, plus high tea and cakes.
EVENING: Bar-crawl between Umhlanga’s many bars, restaurants and pubs. For a more grown-up meal, book in advance for the Chef’s Table, for a seasonal menu over four courses. At about this stage you’ll be sun-kissed, tenderised and marinated. Why try harder?
countrybycountry.com | ABTA Magazine 47
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