Food Macellaio RC Chiltern Firehouse
Cauliflower dishes THREE OF THE BEST
The brassica has been popping up on every menu, so grab your brolly, it’s raining cauli
Wood-grilled cauliflower at Chiltern Firehouse
Firm and charred to perfection on a new wood grill, colossal hunks of cauliflower come dolloped with
emerald-coloured vegetable XO sauce. Bold umami flavours and sour cream make this a dish you’ll want to eke out for as long as you can hog a table. Mossy, come back later, we’re in the middle of something. à 1 Chiltern St, W1U 7PA. 7073 7676. Baker St. £26.
Cauliflower shawarma at Berber & Q
The Haggerston hangout parboils an entire head of cauli, slathers it in a 20-ingredient Levantine ‘shawarma butter’ and sticks it on the barbecue (basting it with more butter , obvs). It’s topped with
pomegranate molasses and seeds, parsley, pine nuts and rose petals. Mon petit chou-fleur… come hither. à 338 Acton Mews, E8 4EA. Haggerston Overground. £9.
Roast cauliflower with truffled achari sauce and naan bread at The Cinnamon Club
Studded with peas and hiding under a pillowy naan, Vivek Singh’s creation may not be a looker but, boy,
is it a lipsmacker. With a blend of tangy Montgomery cheddar, yoghurt, fenugreek, cumin and fennel, it’s like cauliflower cheese and curry shacked up and had an upmarket edible baby.
The Old Westminster Library, 30-32 Great Smith St, SW1P 3BU. 7222 2555. Westminster. £16.■
Tania Ballantine and Megan Carnegie EXCLUSIVE ROUX AT THE LANDAU
HERE’S A CHALLENGE: try to find the naff retro phrase ‘surf and turf’ on the menu of the second branch of this high-concept restaurant on Exmouth Market. You can imagine the folk behind this Italian chain rolling their eyes at the kitsch term, but the truth is, it’s exactly what they offer, encouraging diners to mix tuna and beef. The idea is that tuna are the cows of the sea (both being red-blooded and, er, tasty), so naturally they should live together on your plate. Never mind the waffle, taste the food. Staff
are rightly proud of ingredients: they’ve hung dry-ageing tuna and beef in the windows of this onetime butcher’s and excitedly show off the raw elements of your meal before cooking (which includes dramatically stabbing a knife into the table). Yes, you have to endure a bit of theatre before the main show. But it’s worth the wait as it involves a timeless double act: bloody fish and meat, cooked with care. Sirloin comes in lightly charred, soft shareable pieces. The bluefin tuna reminds you it’s a crime to eat it any way but near-raw. If vampires lost their taste for humans, this is where you’d find them, skipping alternative dishes (pears on my steak? No thanks) and going in for the kill. Bloody good.■Dave Calhoun Dinner for two with drinks and service: around £100.
WHAT IS IT… An temple to steak and tuna on Exmouth Market.
WHY GO… Top-notch bloody butchery.
à 38-40 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. 3696 8220. Angel.
Eat Tokyo
An authentic Japanese dining experience located in the hustle and bustle of Covent Garden. Delicious dishes include a selection of sushi, sashimi and bento boxes
27 Catherine St, Covent Garden, London WC2B 5JS 0208 960 1137
93
Indulge on three courses, a half-bottle of wine, coffee and petit fours at this fancy restaurant for just £42.
TIMEOUT.COM/LANDAU Ts&Cs apply.
July 5 – 11 2016 Time Out London
CHILTERN FIREHOUSE: ©JAMIE ORLANODO SMITH
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