RYE Havin’ the Craic in St. John’s DAVIN DE KERGOMMEAUX
Don’t call me “Birdie!” In 1865, when Bridie Molloy (remember,
don’t call her “Birdie”) was born in Couch Bay, more than half of Newfoundland’s residents, all 162,000 of them, thought of themselves as Irish. They loved sitting around, drink in hand,
“havin’ the craic.” That expression is still common in Ireland today, though in Canada we’d more likely say “shootin’ the breeze.” Bridie was particularly gifted at this, and
today her great-grandson, Jerome Coady, maintains the tradition in his Irish pub on George Street in St. John’s. From 11 a.m. to 3 a.m., Guinness and
conversation flow freely in this amply stocked bar named, aptly, “Bridie Molloy’s.” Three a.m. is a typical closing time in St.
John’s, and Bridie Molloy’s is just one of 25 establishments found along the few hundred steps from The Yellowbelly Pub at one end of George Street to Siren’s Cabaret at the other. The Yellowbelly, built in 1725, is one
of the oldest buildings in North America and is named for an old Irish sect. After a Yellowbelly dinner upstairs, try an Underbelly nightcap downstairs, where Underbelly bar manager, Brandon Francis, draws on a broad selection of Irish, Scotch, bourbon, and Canadian rye whiskies.
Screeched-in There’s a fun-loving Newfoundland
tradition involving a rum – known here as Newfoundland Screech. In a common bar
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ritual, visitors are “screeched-in” to the island. After sketchy vows of allegiance, three shots of screech, and kissing a frozen codfish or a puffin’s “arsehole,” guests are dubbed honorary Newfies. Although Trapper John’s Museum and Pub
near the foot of George Street proclaims itself the home of the screech-in, locals point to Christian’s Bar, just up the street. With cozy snugs and well-stocked back bar, Christian’s doubles as an afterhours hangout for bartenders and staff. Steps away is Fat Cat Blues Bar, offering
live contemporary blues. It can be loud, so if you prefer to chat, head to the outside deck. And if it’s beer you want, George Street Beer Market claims the largest selection of “tapped and uncapped” beers in St. John’s. Fortunately, it also has the largest outdoor heated patio in Newfoundland. O’Reilly’s bar manager, Damian
Dubourdieu, will tell you that until 30 years ago, Newfoundland was a rum province, and Lamb’s Navy rum is still the spirit of choice throughout the province. Today, though, Canadian rye is a close
second – Wiser’s the clear favourite. Bars here feature ryes such as Schenley’s Golden Wedding, whiskies that you might not find at home. A handful of St. John’s bars cater
specifically to whisky lovers, offering a range of Scotch single malts, bourbons, and high-end Canadian whiskies including one only available in Newfoundland.
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