Embrace your Roots
TOM SMART R
oot vegetables represent all that is glorious about the journey from field to plate. Through the warm summer months they
grow patiently beneath the surface, undaunted by the harvesting of the perishable crops above them.
Then the days shorten and the temperature drops and the time is nigh to look towards the soil for those little crops and the sustenance they offer. As the digging ensues, a pile of dirty looking produce is assembled which sits as a disappointment to the eyes following the previous month’s bountiful harvest. But then the magic happens. Those shabby-looking crops are washed, peeled and chopped ready for consumption, and a rainbow of colours is unearthed. Whether it be the deep purple of the beetroot, the gleaming orange of the carrot or the off-white of the parsnip; each offers something slightly different meaning the taste is almost tangible.
Then arrive the possibilities, for
the roots offer a wealth of culinary options that span far beyond their traditional use as a partner to roasted meat. Beetroot is an excellent accompaniment to fish, the earthiness of the vegetable blending beautifully with the subtlety of the fillet. Try pairing some chunks of boiled beetroot with mackerel to finish a peppery rocket salad, or livening up a piece of white fish such as cod with a spicy beetroot salsa. Parsnips glazed with honey are
the roasted vegetable of choice for most children sat round the dinner table, but they make a beautiful mash with just the addition of a good knob of butter and some seasoning, and if you
really want to treat your palate grate in some apple before mashing. Their sweetness when roasted also represents a good base for soup, and it is this characteristic that gives such versatility when thinking of additional ingredients. Curry spices give a parsnip soup that far-flung feeling, with the heat of the chilli offset by the sweetness released in the roast. The addition of something with a more robust, meaty flavour such as bacon will also work well to enhance the deep starchiness of the root. There are so many different vegetables to enjoy at this time of year that you will probably wonder which one to utilise first. There are a number of under-emphasised stars of the root world such as turnip or swede, which both make perfect alternatives to potato in most recipes for that sweeter edge. But while the roots are here to
stay, there are still some leafy treats to get your tongs round. A host of greenery, including courgettes, broccoli and fennel will not be available by November, so make sure these are taken advantage of now. Leeks are coming in and are perfect when cooked simply, while vegetables with short autumn harvests such as sweet corn and butternut squash should be put in a dark cupboard for storage if not being used immediately.
So when you look towards the
larder and see that pile of dirty lumps, just remember the beauty that lies beneath. Steam, roast, boil, fry – these resilient little numbers are good for most things, and make sure you match it with lighter produce soon to be going out of season.
Maincrop potatoes are being unearthed, and these versatile crops can be used for whatever your imagination can think of!
The leek season is underway and these little alliums are great in stews and casseroles. For a flavoursome side try making creamed leaks.
Celeriac is often overlooked but the
wonderful nutty flavour makes it perfect for a hearty soup when bulked up with potato.
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