lot of crab and lobster – I think the crab around these parts is some of the best in the world. Trust is also important and that all comes down to forging good relationships.
How important is locality and seasonability to you and your cooking? Incredibly. I have great local suppliers who I speak to daily about what is good and what isn’t and from seafood to lettuce they know what I like. Being in Devon I’m lucky, there are real experts here who are passionate about the animals they rear or the vegetables they grow.
Where did this ethos arise? When my parents moved down here they bought a bit of land and we always grew our own vegetables. It just seems simple to me, when the tomatoes are ready that’s what you use; when the new crop potatoes are ready that’s what you use. With supermarkets it has become easy to lose sight of the seasons.
What do you look for in a supplier? Obviously quality is paramount and price plays its part, but sustainability is more important now than it ever has been. In terms of fish certainly, I like to use produce as it becomes available as that’s when it is ready. It’s key to what we are doing here. We use a
Can you share any of your favoured local suppliers? Absolutely. Farmer Phil Bond is a sheep farmer from Blackawton, which is just 1.5 miles from Dartmouth, and his expertise is second to none in my opinion. We set up trips from the hotel so that some of my guys can go up to his farm and take a look around. That gives them a chance to really understand what is good, what isn’t, and why certain lambs are good for Dart Marina. He has a real love for sheep and is a great guy.
With the use of seasonal produce your menu must change regularly?
The menus do change seasonally but I have four menus that I rotate daily. I like to change dishes within each menu so that rather than completely re-write it, it is always evolving. I think, especially being part of a hotel where people may stay for four or five days, that it gives something slightly different than just running a menu for a month then changing it.
What are you looking forward to cooking this autumn? Bramley apples are in abundance for a nice Tarte Tatin, and while mackerel is still coming through I like to make a lovely smoked mackerel pate. We are also just getting into game. I love partridge, so it always goes on the menu and venison will be ready very shortly. You cannot forget that the crab
available now is at its best, with sweet meat and full claws. I can’t wait to get my hands on them!
As a local boy, what makes the South West so inspiring to the FOODLOVER? It’s unbelievable! We have some of the best fishing around, yet you can go inland and find beautiful hill-grazing sheep and cattle a stone’s throw from beautiful vegetable fields. The land here is lush and we have a slightly more temperate climate here in Devon. The sea, the land, the animals, I can’t see anywhere better!
Do you have any favourite places to eat out? To be honest when I am not working I like nothing more than to cook at home for my family. I am usually off on a Sunday, so in the winter I watch the boys play rugby and stick a roast in the oven, life doesn’t get any better than that. Cooking and rugby are the main passions in our household, although I have got my boys to share my love of fishing!
Finally, Dart Marina sits in a beautiful location overlooking the Dartmouth Harbour. Is it important for the feel of the restaurant to compliment the food? People want a dining ‘experience’ now more than ever. The new restaurant here at Dart Marina which opened in April has increased the experience. Everywhere in the restaurant you have a view over the River Dart, and the views are forever changing. In terms of complimenting the food it is key: the service, the quality of food and friendliness of the staff all add to it.
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