FOOD
The man who can sell coals to Newcastle crab soup to Cornwall
They’re back. For six years, Jon and Ros Tallon’s restaurant Sian-Elin’s was one of the main draws in Yarmouth. Now, finds Roz Whistance, they’ve opened their own Café/Bistro and farm shop at King’s Manor Farm, and Jon’s patés, pies and fish
soup are back on the West Wight radar
“Jon always wanted an outlet for his homemade dishes; I always wanted my own bistro. This is both, rolled into one.”
Ros Tallon has just wrapped a large piece of chicken pie (local chicken, of course) and cut a couple of slices of Isle of Wight ham for a customer, and a couple having coffee are delighted to recognise her from her front of house days at Sian-Elin’s. She and her chef husband Jon have been at King’s Manor for just eight weeks and already word is getting round that they’re back, making the food they were renowned for.
“It’s lovely being away from the hustle and bustle of Yarmouth,” says Ros, “especially in the summer. Here, although we’re just up the road from Freshwater’s big Co-op we’re right in the countryside it’s so peaceful and customers are finding they can really relax.”
While customers gaze over the fields surrounding the Yar river, Ros is buzzing with ideas for both the shop and the café, which was originally created as an outlet for the farm’s rare breed lamb meat. She’s expanded the café into the room, making for a far more relaxed ambiance, with the produce on sale at the front.
“It’s not changed too much – we’re still a farm shop and a café – but we’ve
upgraded. We’re a café during the day but a bistro in the evening – we’re open on Friday and Saturday nights offering a small à la carte menu.”
The produce is local when in season, none of the fresh goods are bought in, and Jon cooks all food from scratch. But while other farm shops all tend to stock one another’s goods, Ros anticipates there won’t be a need here. “For Jon it’s even better than the restaurant because he’s using all his ideas to fill up the chiller with his own pies, soups, quiches, amongst other things ,which accompany the Island produce. We try our best to stock all the essentials –milk, fruit, veg and bread as well as meats and fish for meal ideas. As time goes on we’ll be making our own chutneys and preserves. As well as using King’s Manor lamb we’ve specified to our butcher we only want Island meats.”
Never was the contents of a chiiler and a freezer more exciting. Whole cakes (Jon’s), meats and sausages (Isle of Wight), and Jon’s finest crab soup are there to buy and take away. “A couple brought in their friends who came from Cornwall. They had the soup and said they loved it so much they took eight pots back to Falmouth.” Talk about selling coals to Newcastle!
The quiches, pies and meat and fish (from local waters where possible) make for a lovely display, and can also be ordered in advance. “I’ve started a personal shopping service where I can order goods in within 24 hours. Fish, any cuts of meat – a leg of lamb from the farm, say – whole apple pies, whatever you want.”
The café menu is simple and wholesome, and any dish can be a smaller portion for a child. “It’s great for children here. As well as walkers we’re getting people who pop the kids’ bikes on the back of the car so they can ride on the lane and the adults can chill.”
Come the evening there is no sudden switch, just a subtle lowering of lights
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and lighting of candles so nobody feels obliged to rush, and the addition to the daytime menu of a handful of enticing bistro specials. “We know we’re a destination location but all are welcome to come and relax for breakfast, coffee and cake, lunch, even a delicious clotted cream tea. Take something from the deli chiller, shop for supper or even come back later for dinner, to eat unrushed.”
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