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High-Performance Alternatives to Silicone


Joining forces to meet challenging consumer demands: by combining their product portfolios, technical skills and market expertise, BASF and Cognis – which is now part of BASF – are now even better placed to help manufacturers set new trends. Together with experts from their cosmetic active ingredients businesses, BASF Beauty Care Solutions and Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, the company will demonstrate its innovative and sustainable solutions, and show how the combined strength can help customers meet the latest consumer needs


The term “silicone” refers to a range of oils, all with different chemical structures and performance properties. For example, volatile silicones are used to give cosmetic formulations a light and smooth feel, while high-molecular silicone grades and silicone derivatives are widely used in hair care formulations to give conditioning or shine-enhancing effects. However, more and more consumers are looking for products that are based on alternative ingredients. Consequently, the number of products on the market claiming to be “silicone-free” has increased significantly in the last three years.


Efficient solutions that don’t compromise on performance To meet this growing demand, manufacturers need to find efficient and innovative ingredients that are just as high – or even better performing and come as close as possible to the sensorial profile of silicone oils. Suitable alternatives need to either have a high level of spreadability, be able to dissolve other ingredients, possess the right level of hydrolytic stability, or have to offer a high conditioning performance and sensorial benefits. Cognis offers a comprehensive range of ingredients for skin and hair care products with the necessary properties.


/10 minutes, and is ideal for face and body care formulations. Sensory assessments have proven that it has a similar sensorial profile to cyclomethicone, and provides a pleasant dry skin feel. However, unlike


Skin care: high-performing solutions with a pleasant skin feel In order to give leave-on products a light feel, short chain esters, carbonates or ethers with a high spreading value can be used as alternatives to cyclic silicones. The spreadability of an emollient greatly enhances the sensory properties of an emulsion. Fast-spreading emollients help the emulsion to spread evenly on the skin, meaning the active ingredients can work to maximum effect. Cognis’ high-performance silicone alternatives for skincare products include a number of emollients that deliver this light, smooth skin feel. Cetiol C5 (INCI: Coco- Caprylate), for example, has a spreadibility of 1,300 mm2


cyclomethicone, Cetiol C5 is derived from 100 percent natural, renewable feedstocks. Furthermore, it is also much easier to emulsify than cyclic siloxanes and alkane alternatives.


Hair care: ingredients with proven properties In hair care, silicones are widely used in shampoos and conditioners because of their excellent conditioning properties. Consumers who are interested in silicone-free hair care still expect the same benefits as they get from conventional silicone-based solutions. Whether they are used in clear or opaque shampoo formulations, hair care products without silicones can often provide superior conditioning, and even a noticeable repair effect and protection against hair breakage. One such high- performance alternative to high- molecular silicone grades is Lamesoft Care (INCI: PEG-4 Distearyl Ether (and) Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Distearyl Ether (and) Dicaprylyl Ether). This conditioning agent is easy to incorporate into formulations and offers very good conditioning performance. It also offers excellent hair breakage protection:


physical measurements on treated hair strands have demonstrated that a shampoo containing only three percent of ”micronized waxes” delivers the same outstanding anti-hair breakage protection as three leading benchmark silicone-based shampoos used in combination with their conditioner.


BASF, Beauty Care Solutions, Cognis and LS, Stands L40, L30 and L31


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