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The in-focus 2011 feature will explore the challenges and key drivers of success in the development of sustainable cosmetics
In Barcelona, 5 years ago, in-cosmetics launched AMAZONIA, the first edition of in-focus. Going one step beyond the natural and the organic, in-cosmetics chose to embrace the ethical innovation theme. Answering one of the hottest topics expressed by visitors and exhibitors, this year’s in-focus is returning to the theme. And the progress made by the industry has been phenomenal. At in-focus, meet with key suppliers, brands, scientists and marketers to share their vision and experience on one of the most exciting challenges ahead.
Visionary concepts 7 projects to experience new ideas and technologies through original prototypes
New ingredients, rethink natural! Whilst referring to sustainable development, the emphasis has been put almost exclusively on natural ingredients, but chemistry and bio- engineering are also at the forefront. Concepts such as plant cells culture, enzymatic processes and synthesis of nature identical molecules will open new possibilities for energy savings and cleaner industrial processes with lower impacts on biodiversity.
IRB Vegetable Stem Cells - Nature direct from the lab High in the Alps, the Edelweiss is one of nature most perfect symbol of purity. Living in altitude, resistant to more UV rays and harsher climatic conditions, it is also a prodigious source of anti-ageing molecules. Now what if instead of collecting flowers from the mountain, drying them, reducing them to powder, shipping them to a plant and extracting their substances with a solvent, you could cultivate their precious cells in a laboratory and directly use those fresh cells in serum. With two original prototypes, IRB brings us a new vision of nature in jar – sustainable, quantified, precisely monitored, in other words genuinely transparent.
Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH Biocatalysis - Engineering nature for a greener touch When it comes to producing functional substances, nature is no doubt the most innovative and versatile laboratory! Rethinking its manufacturing processes in a sustainable perspective, Evonik has had a close look at the way enzymes enhance reactions in Nature. Based on their unique expertise they have developed a new versatile enzyme reactor based on a bubble column (BCR). For the first time, it allows for the first time an ultra eco-efficient processing of complex, multi-phase mixtures using renewable resources. Evonik uses an enzymatic process which
lowers the energy consumption by about 60 percent and reduces the amount of pollutants by up to 88 percent. At in-focus, Evonik will bring a pilot version of the reactor as well as samples of textures formulated with the resulting new generation of emollients and emulsifiers: invented by nature, perfected by science.
Merck Nature Identical - All the power of nature, more efficiently Dihydroxy Methylchromone (DHMC) is an interesting cosmetic ingredient which exhibits activities found in many medicinal plants indigenous to locations around the world. In evaluating sustainability aspects of producing “nature-identical” DHMC via a synthetic process versus isolation of DHMC through a classical extraction processes, it became readily apparent that the synthetic route was more environmentally sustainable than extraction. In a second initiative, Merck optimized the “nature- identical” DHMC synthesis and achieved nearly 50% reduction in the use of organic solvents, above 80% reduction in water consumption and lowered CO2 emissions to almost zero. On in-focus, Merck will feature DHMC in a formulation kit containing a collection of prototype products illustrating aspects of Merck’s global involvement and commitment to sustainability.
Eco-design, the new principles of product innovation Beyond sourcing the right ingredients, it is the complete process of product development that needs to be rethought. The capacity of brands to anticipate the impacts of their activities at every step of the product life cycle will greatly determine their success in the future.
Croda, Sederma, Crodarom @1 with nature - Fitting your definition of sustainability without compromise Sustainable development is still in its infancy and as a result, there is an endless list of definitions for green and sustainable products. Now, whatever the criteria adopted, Croda believe there is one thing that should not be sacrificed - product performance. And while the debates continue, chemists in the lab need to deliver the right formula! To reflect the different definitions of green and sustainable cosmetics that exist in today’s personal care market, the Croda Group has created three eco-designed formulations using a variety of new technologies and ingredients to meet different consumer needs according to their personal level of ‘greenness’. A creative exercise to showcase the latest resources available to improve your innovation processes: vegetable cell culture, patented microwave extraction techniques, Ecocert approved emulsifiers, solubilisers and sunscreens and Croda’s
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