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The in-focus 2011 feature will explore the challenges and key drivers of success in the development of sustainable cosmetics. Jacques Sebag, who coordinates the feature, gives us a sneak preview!
In Barcelona, 5 years ago, in-cosmetics launched AMAZONIA, the first edition of in-focus. Going one step beyond the natural and the organic, in-cosmetics chose to embrace the ethical innovation theme. Answering one of the hottest topics expressed by visitors and exhibitors, this year’s in-focus is returning to the theme. And the progress made by the industry has been phenomenal. At in-focus, meet with key suppliers, brands, scientists and marketers to share their vision and experience on one of the most exciting challenges ahead.
Sustainable development has often been
perceived as a call to end growth and progress. But the adjective “sustainable” does not diminish the meaning of the word “development”. Sustainable development is actually one of the most promising drivers of innovation. It calls for new solutions, new raw materials, new chemistry and new processes. And above all, it adds to the intrinsic value of innovation. Rather than being limited to better performance or new functions, sustainable innovation leads to more rational economies - safer products obtained at lower costs with a better management of resources and waste. And this is the reason why worldwide suppliers and manufacturers have taken radical steps impacting new product development as well as their marketing policies. Chemistry is being completely rejuvenated. Nature is intimately combining with science. Objective information and a new degree of transparency are transforming brand communication and a complete revolution is now at work. New formulation standards and new collaboration principles will modify the relationship between suppliers and brands. The in-focus programme gives you a unique opportunity to have a look at new technologies in the pipeline and explore the new territories of sustainable innovation.
Sneak peak The feature area will present 8 different projects illustrating 3 different dimensions of sustainable development.
Ethical Sourcing - Getting the Global Picture Beraca, this year’s in-focus sponsor, has teamed up with Kiehl’s of L’Oréal to present a joint project from plant to product. The project will illustrate how
sustainable development is radically modifying the relationships between brands and suppliers. Sourcing a vegetable raw material from the Rain Forest impacts the delicate balance of an eco-system and engages cultures unfamiliar with one another. A responsible approach demands new anticipations and new types of commitments. With more than 50 years of experience in Brazil, Beraca as developed a unique know how enabling them to interconnect the needs of nature, traditional cultures and contemporary science. The involvement of Khiel’s on the feature is an example of how transparency and long-term commitments have been adopted by the major brands of our industry.
New Ingredients - Rethink Natural! Whilst referring to sustainable development, the emphasis has been put almost exclusively on natural ingredients, but chemistry and bio-engineering are also at the forefront. Concepts such as plant cells culture, enzymatic processes and synthesis of nature identical molecules will open new possibilities for energy savings and cleaner industrial processes with a lower impact on biodiversity. Major players are now implementing new tools to select new ingredients and raw materials according to their potential impact on the environment. The coupling of databases and dedicated software even allows scientists to anticipate the potential interest of new molecules – a strategy already used in matters of toxicology. IRB, Evonik and Merck will show how these new technologies may inspire new product concepts or lead to highly interesting textures – but they will also trigger disturbing new questions. Why go to the other side of the planet to cultivate plants when their cells can produce the exact same molecule in a lab? Why take the risk of complex chemical reactions when living organisms can “manufacture” the same product at a cheaper price?
Eco-design - The New Principles of Product Innovation Beyond sourcing the right ingredients, it is the complete process of product development that needs to be rethought. The capacity of brands to anticipate the impacts of their activities at every step of the product life cycle, will determine their success in the future. The proper implementation of eco-design is expected to be not only the source of greater efficiency, but also of greater consumer acceptability. Initiatives such as the Grenelle de l’Environnement in France or the Carbon Disclosure Project are strongly indicating that sustainable development will no longer be a set of vague idealistic principles. The environmental impact of products as well as corporate policies will become the subject of objective information for consumers and share-holders – and therefore become a key factor in investment and purchasing decision processes.
At in-focus, Croda, Sinerga, Aldivia and Solabia will display full scale product concepts illustrating how combining emerging new technologies and new product philosophies may lead to impressive new textures and surprising new products. Being at the crossroads of different expertise and know-how, Croda will present 3 different collections of
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