TRAINING
Setting Standards B
ack in the 60s, Tai massage got a bad rap. American soldiers used the term as a euphemism for sexual favours and, as a result, it became
one of the most misunderstood wellness practices in the world. At least, until recently. North American spas have since embraced the concept alongside other exotic Asian therapies to help give menus a competitive edge. European markets, however, have been slower on the uptake and spa directors would do well to find out more about its benefits. Many Tais consider the practice to be an essential component of individual health, and although not the easiest modality for farangs (foreigners) – who may lack the cul- tural intuition – to learn, Tai massage is an excellent adjunct to a spa practitioner’s exist- ing bodywork skills.
GOVERNMENT RECOGNITION
Without doubt, Wat Po Tai Traditional Med- ical and Massage School (Wat Po TTM) in Bangkok is the mothership for learning Tai massage. Te school sets the standards for Tai massage as we know it today. It was the first to earn approval from the Ministry of Education in 1955 and the Ministry of Health in the late 1990s, and a Wat Po TTM qualifi- cation is the minimum requirement for Tai
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nationals to practise in Tailand, especially in hospitals and rehabilitative centres. It’s this recognition that sets Wat Po TTM apart from all other instruction on Tai massage and also represents the initial efforts to encourage licensed professionals in the country.
TRADITION OF WELLNESS Te school first opened in 1955 in Wat Po
– one of the largest and oldest wats (tem- ples) in Bangkok, which is located in an area covering 50 rai (20 acres) near to the Royal Grand Palace. King Rama I began restora- tions in 1788 and these continued through until 1851 and the reign of King Rama III, who turned the temple into a public centre of learning by decorating walls and pillars with inscriptions and diagrams on subjects such as history, literature and astrology. Te one-room Tai massage school, which
still operates as a drop-in massage pavil- ion, taught techniques which comprise a combination of pressure point stimulation, kneading and assisted yoga-like stretches that in some instances appear almost chi- ropractic in nature. Practitioners use their hands, elbows, knees, heels, feet and body- weight to deliver the therapy unless they are of the rarefied few who practise royal Tai massage, a hands-only service once reserved for the royal family. It’s believed that the Wat Po massage stands out because it is much deeper, and applies more pressure than other forms of Tai massage.
TODAY’S OFFERING
Like many temples, Wat Po was established on land donated by devout Buddhists – in this case, a Chinese family named Sae Tang whose descendents are still very much involved in the community. Among other businesses (see p63), they run the 44-bed drop-in massage pavilion – where a massage costs anything between thb150 (us$4.60, €3.60, £3) and thb300 (us$9.20, €7.30, £6.10)
– four other affiliated Wat Po schools and were responsible for moving Wat Po TTM to its present location 10 years ago. For such a cultural icon, Wat Po TTM is
in an unexpected place. Tucked in at the end of dead-end alley that bumps up against the Chao Phraya River, the five-level building exudes no air of sophistication. Te open-to-the-street reception area lan-
Wat Po massage stand outs from other forms of Thai massage because of its heritage and its harder pressure
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guishes just beyond chipped marble steps; its tight quarters accommodate mismatched furniture, makeshiſt shelves for instruction materials and a small alcove retailing sig- nature brands of oils, herbs and body care products. It’s not exactly a prestigious wel- come but none of this seems to matter. Wat Po TTM’s reputation far outweighs its humble surrounds.
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As the birthplace of Thai massage, the Wat Po School of Traditional Thai Medicine and Massage sets the gold standard for a wellness practice that is becoming a staple of spa menus worldwide. We find out more
ALL PHOTOS: BILL VANDERSFORD
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