T e Benten no Yado Itsukushima (above) is a traditional inn which has a simple, yet high-end off ering with magnifi cent views (below)
resents an opportunity for the Japanese to melt down the hierarchical nature of society through mutual nakedness and intimacy. My freshly laundered yukata was removed and stored in a beautiful wicker basket which just sat on an open shelf – security at this onsen, like all public places I visited in Japan, was not an issue. In return, I picked up a small modesty towel, slid open a door to the male cleansing room and began my ‘naked communion’. All around the room there were bathing stations equipped with
Onsen represent an opportunity for the Japanese to melt down the hierarchical nature of society through mutual nakedness and intimacy
shower taps, where you’re required to squat on a wooden stool and wash your hair and body with great vigour. Aſt er the washing, there’s a rinsing process where you wash away all traces of soap – entering the onsen while still dirty or with traces of soap on the body, is socially unacceptable. My small towel, not much bigger than a face cloth, provided a
modicum of modesty as I walked between facilities. From the wash- ing area, I immersed myself in the fi rst indoor hot tub before moving to the Tombo-no-yu: an open air hot spring which had spectacular views of the mountains. Relaxed already, I moved onto a series of meditation baths which had been designed to stimulate all fi ve of the senses. Bath Hikari in the light and Bath Yami in the dark pro- vided a unique environment where time just sped away as I happily fl oated about. T e magic of the experience continued over dinner where every dish was presented as a stunning work of art.
A TRADITIONAL OFFERING Not all onsen are as modern as the one at the Hoshinoya resort, but it seems all are unique. On the island of Miyajima, less than an hour from the city of Hiroshima by water taxi, I sat in an onsen and took in the magnifi cent views the of the torii gate which marks the entrance to the Itsukushima Shrine – a national treasure and UNESCO World Heritage Site. By day the torii gate appears to be fl oating in the water
SPA BUSINESS 3 2010 ©Cybertrek 2010
at high tide, while at night the shrine and the gate are illuminated and surrounded by walkways over the water that are lit with stone lan- terns. T is was the setting for Benten no Yado Itsuku- shima: a ryokan (traditional Inn), which refl ects the tra- ditional Japanese way of life that is still so deeply ingrained in contemporary culture. T e rooms were very simple with tatami-mats on the fl oor, a bath made from local hinoki cypress wood and a futon that goes down at night. T is ryokan has been built into the hillside along with a simple wooden onsen which provides the most perfect peaceful refl ections across the bay before I was served a dinner of fresh seafood. I later read that the view from the onsen has been ranked as one of Japan’s top 10 sights – a judgement with which I have to concur.
T e Itsukushima Shrine entrance
FROM THE FUTURE On the way back to Tokyo I had one more stopover planned; and although it didn’t get the views like those on Miyajima, I did get to follow in the footsteps of the famous at the Yamaha Tsumagoi resort
– a venue of choice for the rock band Queen and a previous training ground for the Japanese football team. Yamaha, the Japanese music
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PHOTO: TORII GATE ©JNTO
PHOTO: ©2010 BENTEN NO YADO, ITSUKUSHIMA - ONSEN
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