main road. We followed the rushing water to a point where several lo-
cals had engineered a zip line, reaching from the top of the waterfall
down over 100 feet into the lagoon. I challenged my fear of heights
and paid the 5 USD so the young entrepreneurs could strap me into
the harness and push me off the cliff. After landing awkwardly in the
cool waters below I felt emboldened enough to spend the rest of
the day exploring more of the river and its never-ending waterfalls
on my own. I had just enough time during my last day in Lençóis to
drive with Jaime to Morro do Pai Inácio, the iconic tourist destination
inside Chapada Diamantina. We hiked over dirt and rock, scattered
Dinner in Lençóis is best enjoyed al fresco.
with cactus and lizards to the top of Morro do Pai Inácio, where we
took in spectacular 360-degree views from hundreds of feet above
the valley. I was stuck by the contrast of such enormous, monolithic-
like mesas in the distance and the fragile wild orchids that stretched
out by the hundreds at my feet. Like much of Brazil, Chapada Dia-
mantina is a place of polar opposites and great extremes as well as
breathtaking beauty and welcoming people.
Lennullnulls
Where to stay in lençóis:
Lençóis is the most popular “base camp” for visiting Chapada
Diamantina for several reasons, including its central location and
inside
impressive accommodations. Two of the most beautiful and well-
Chapada diamantina
appointed hotels in town are Canto das Áquas (www.lencois.com.
br), which features eco-minded riverfront suites in a gorgeous
national Park, Brazil
tropical setting, and Hotel de Lençóis (www.hoteldelencois.com),
with lush grounds and sumptuous views.
Making my way over a makeshift bridge in search of more
waterfalls, outside Lençóis.
don’t miss:
Fumaça Waterfall, unique and astonishing for its size and beauty.
At 380 meters, it is the second highest waterfall in the world.
Located near the main square in town is Calil Neto Fotografia. This
local photographer offers hundreds of spectacular images from
around Chapada Diamantina for purchase. It’s an easy way to enjoy
your time in nature without constantly fussing with the camera.
Just off the main plaza Burritos y Taquitos Santa Fé is a charming
open-air restaurant owned by an American expat from Santa Fé
(thus the name). Along with delicious and fairly-authentic New
Mexican cuisine, you’ll find a Brazilian version of Margaritas.
Getting around lençóis and Chapada diamantina:
Real Expresso (www.realexpresso.com.br) is a motor coach
service (known in Brazil as ônibus) with routes throughout Brazil,
including service between Salvador and Lençóis. Flying within
Brazil remains expensive and service at the airport near Lençóis is
sparse, but visit TRIP Airlines (www.voetrip.com.br) if you have a
strong aversion to six hours worth of potholes.
Zentur (www.zentur.tur.br) is the guide service I used and highly
recommend. Located in the town’s central square, it’s possible to
hire a guide last minute, but reservations are strongly suggested.
Ask for Jaime. He likes the gays!
For more detailed information on serious treks, visit
travellerspoint.com and
type in keywords “Chapada Diamantina.”
For a resource-rich online portal go to
www.braziltour.com, brought to you by
Hotel Canto das Áquas. Brazil’s Ministry of Tourism.
MAY 2009 | RAGE monthly 65
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