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www.thecaterer.com Revelations Oli Martin, head chef, Hipping Hall, Cumbria
What was your best subject at school? Nothing – school wasn’t for me
What was your first job? Paperboy
Summer Berries & Autumn Fruits By Annie Rigg Kyle Books, £19.99
The British weather may be as unpredictable as ever, but in Annie Rigg’s book the sunshine is constant. Pristine photogra- phy jumps off the page, virtually glistening in the imagined heat simmering from the pages. Ice cream, sorbets, granitas, light cakes, picnic-perfect terrines, and dainty salads – all offer a snippet of summer and use fruit in a myr- iad of creative and tempting ways. A delicious frolic through the seasons, this book lists recipes according to the type of fruit – from citrus to berries to “stone” to tropical – and offers a paragraph of explanation for each recipe, at times nostalgic, at times histori- cal, but always warm and wise. We can feel Rigg’s personal- ity with every page, as she offers serving suggestions, tips for mak- ing the dish as successful as pos- sible – “I assure you, it’s simply a matter of plaiting the dough”; hur- ried confidences – “the first time I made this, I greedily ate almost the entire pineapple” – and nos- talgic memories: “this will for- ever remind me of lazy summer lunches with my mother”. Although not super-simple, the recipes are still manageable for chefs or caterers seeking a quick burst of fruit on a menu. There’s
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nothing here that a competent chef couldn’t handle in spades. Despite this simplicity, how-
ever, menu planners may find the book mildly frustrating given that the recipes aren’t arranged by course. The photos go some way to help, but with lobster salad nestling alongside fig chutney and gooseberry posset, it could easily become confusing for anyone looking for a great main course and finding nothing but lemon madeleines. And yet, this variety is also one of the book’s major strengths. From relaxed salads to moreish canapés to impressive desserts, and even thirst-quenching cock- tails, every recipe reveals another dimension. With
everything
from warming winter butternut soup with pears and chestnuts, to simple-yet-satisfying plum sor- bet, Rigg has created a genuinely lovely snapshot into a world in which fruit is boundless. By Hannah Thompson
If you like this, you may enjoy these Fern Verrow: Recipes from the Farm Kitchen Harry Astley Homemade Memories: Childhood Treats With A Twist Kate Doran Honey and Jam: Seasonal Baking from My Kitchen in the Mountains Hannah Queen
What was your first job in catering?
Potwash at Chicory restaurant in Lytham
What do you normally have for breakfast? Quadruple espresso
Which is your favourite restaurant? One of the best meals I’ve had was at Akrame, Paris
What is your favourite drink? Estrella Inedit, at the moment
What is your favourite cuisine? Thai food or anything spicy
Are there any ingredients that you refuse to cook with?
I hate cheap black pudding
What flavour combinations do you detest? Chocolate and chilli
What do you always carry with you? A Sharpie pen
How would you describe your desk? A clipboard next to my chopping board
Which person in catering have you most admired? Grant Achatz
Which person gave you the greatest inspiration? My first head chef, Steven Shepherd, was the first to push me
If not yourself, who would you rather have been? Justin
Timberlake
Cast away on a desert island, what luxury would you take? A boat
When and where was your last holiday? Budapest, Hungary, in January
Tell us a secret... I’m a chocoholic, I can’t get enough – it’s dangerous
What irritates you most
about the industry? People wanting to start at the top without putting the work in to get there
What’s your favourite film? The Shawshank Redemption
What’s your favourite book? Anything by Terry Pratchett
31 July 2015 | The Caterer | 53
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