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T
he Caterer’s interview with Gary Usher was rather appropriately arranged via direct message on Twitter, arguably the
chef’s favourite method of communication. Dates were negotiated, train tickets from Lon- don to Chester were booked and Usher offered to cook for me ahead of our chat. The interview that followed lasted more than an hour and a half, but it was only as the conversation drew to a close that he thought to ask what it was all for. Had it really not occurred to Usher that the hotly anticipated opening of his crowdfunded second restaurant Burnt Truffle might be the perfect excuse for a catch-up? Genuinely not, it would seem.
Usher is the man behind restaurant Sticky
L-R: Michael Cotter, Rob Howe, Danny Wallace, Gary Usher, Michael Wong, Emma Underwood
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Walnut’s Twitter timeline, which features gems such as last week’s: “We're number 15 in the country on the Square Meal list. Sorry to anyone who feels we shouldn’t be there. I don't fucking ask to be on them,” and this wonderfully sar- castic riposte to a vitriolic TripAdvisor reviewer: “We’re so rude at Sticky that once a guest gets back to their table from visiting the toilet, we walk past the table pinching our nose.” One might imagine that such a character might carry himself with swagger. But while Usher is undoubtedly charming, his manner when we meet is surprisingly self-deprecating. Any assumption that he might be a shining beacon of confidence, which some might sug- gest is a hair’s breadth away from arrogance, is undoubtedly mistaken.
31 July 2015 | The Caterer | 45
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