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modeling ventures that this coating, when exposed to an alcohol-based liq- uid, produces a subtle lightening of the base coat. This reaction is almost always different each time the process is used. For me, these washes are almost always an india ink and alcohol (92% if you can find it) mixture or Rustall, which is manufactured by the Kuras Design Group (
www.rustall.com). Starting from the top of the subject,
Weathering is a technique that can #82839
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take a number of forms from oversprays to dry brushing to using pastels or chalks or employing various liquids and washes. Most of these techniques try and replicate dust or soil or liquids and rusty water that has run down the sides of railroad equipment or struc- tures. On the tanks in the article that Frank mentioned, the dirtying was pretty simple and really involved two procedures. First, I had already painted the tanks
with, I believe, a flat Testors silver shade, likely from a spray can. This was for a project a while ago. The first weath- ering step was to then spray a coat of Testors Dullcote. I found early on in my
simply flow the chosen liquid onto the surface and let it drip down toward the base. Don’t overdo it but use enough to subtly color the base paint. As the washes dry, the paint will develop a hazy kind of finish with subtle dirty or rusty tones. The liquid will follow rivets or seams naturally, just like the real thing. You can also enhance the effects with a bit of weathering powder, like Dr. Ben’s, either applied dry or with a touch of alcohol. This process works best on simulated metal surfaces, but it can also be used on wooden structures around hinges, handles and other “met- al” fixtures. If used on real wood, the 92% alcohol
will dry quickly and minimize warpage. Oh yeah, don’t overspray the weathered surfaces with another layer of Dullcote; I’ve found that it may negate the original efforts. That’s it and like they say, “practice makes better.”– BOB BENNETT
www.digitrax.com
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