Modeling business cars for the C&O and Pere Marquette
The business car’s B&O logo and lettering were removed with an eraser. This work was done carefully to minimize any scuff- ing of the blue paint (above left). Still, repainting was necessary
of thing.) The models also had the car number at the ends of the car. They are not very visible and the space is tight, so I carefully painted over them in- stead of trying to use the eraser. Because I removed the B&O logo and some of the blue paint around it, I needed to repaint the blue. To insure the blue on the side of the car matched the blue on the roof, I painted both of them. I’ve had some trouble with masking tape bleeding paint along the edges in the past, so I wanted to try something new. I purchased Frogtape® (manufactured by Shurtape, Hickory N.C.) at the local home store. It comes in a resealable plastic canister. Keep- ing the tape in the canister helps keep dust or other particles away from the edge of the tape, thereby improving its ability to provide a crisp edge. I attached the tape to a piece of
glass, and, using a No. 11 hobby knife and a metal ruler, cut the tape to exact- ly fit the areas being masked. I was very pleased with the results. The tape cut easily into clean thin strips with no ragged edges. I then pulled the tape off the glass and attached it to the model to cover the yellow and the silver, bur- nishing the edges to make sure there was a tight seal. I tried to use as little tape as possible to avoid accidental damage to the existing paint. After the new paint was dry, the Frogtape came off without a problem. (An alternative to painter’s masking
tape is Tamiya masking tape. Made for model building, it is very thin, which avoids paint build-up along the edges, and it is flexible enough to follow gen- tle curves as well as snug down over louvers and other surface details. The adhesive is sufficient to avoid bleeding along the edges and it does not pull up paint–editor.)
I repainted the blue areas of the car with several light coats of Polly Scale C&O Enchantment Blue using a sin- gle-action Paasche airbrush. To add the
52 APRIL 2014
and the roof was also painted to match. A strip of masking tape (above right) was used to keep the grab irons from flying off as they were clipped from the sprue.
gloss for the decals, I used Microscale Micro Gloss and an airbrush. I was not pleased with the results, so I used Badger Model Flex Ready-to-Use Cleaner (No. 16-604) and a soft cloth to remove the gloss coat. A friend in my club, Carl Jeschke, recommended Flo- quil Crystal Cote (F110004) instead. I thinned it in a ratio of 75 percent Crys- tal Cote and 25 percent thinner with Testors Universal Enamel Thinner No. 8824. To be sure of the results, I used a junk car as a guinea pig. The results were great. (At the next train show, I will pick up a few junk cars for more
painting and weathering practice.) I applied the decals using Microscale Micro Sol setting solution. These includ- ed the Pere Marquette road name, the City of Petoskey car name, Chesapeake & Ohio lettering and C&O logo, and the City of Charleston car name. The “City of ” decals were in the correct font and were included with a Walthers C&O pas- senger car kit I already owned. The other decals were purchased from Microscale. To protect the decals and hide their
edges, as well as provide a uniform flat finish, I sprayed the car with Testors Dullcote thinned 50:50 with their No.
The decals for the Chesapeake & Ohio (above) and the Pere Marquette (below) were in a set of decals the author had from a Walthers car. To protect the decals and hide their edges, the carbody was sprayed with Dullcote diluted with Testors No. 1159X thinner.
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