Top fits in pick up shoe
Copper pickup shoe
Bottom fits between the frame and interior body
There are six of these small lugs, three on each side of each lens strip, that snap into small, matching mount- ing boxes molded on the ceiling of the car. See the photos. The lens strips must be installed on the ceiling with the “vee- gap” towards the ceiling and the flat face towards the light bulbs or LEDs. Alignment pins on the printed cir- cuit board holder and appropriate holes on the circuit board assured their correct installation. It was a snug fit, but I added a tiny bit of cyanoacrylate cement to glue the two pieces together. The copper “shoes” must be installed in the proper location on the printed circuit board for either DCC (Kato Dig- ital) or conventional d.c. power, as indi- cated on the bottom of the circuit board holder, and the tabs on the power pick up plates/bus bars, must be inserted into the slots on these shoes. Again, the photo shows their location on each side of the car. They fit between the weight and the interior seat molding. The lights (LEDs or bulbs) fit in the
middle of the car, and the lenses go on both sides of the light. On each side of the light, the lens will fit between four small round posts and also between two larger rectangular stops at the ends of the car. Although they snapped into place, I used cyanoacrylate cement to secure the lenses.
Tomar drumhead
The exploded-parts view at the topshows the printed circuit board holder, the brass power bus bars, and the copper “shoes” that connect the bus bars to the circuit board. The bars, which are hidden next to the car’s walls, are to be inserted into the power pickup shoes.
gap” lens strips, a printed circuit board and holder, copper current pick-up plates/bus bars, and copper “shoes” for the electrical connections to the PC board itself. I believe the lighting kit was de- signed for a full-length passenger car.
However, since the business car has an exterior observation platform, the light- ing strips need to be shortened. I used a razor saw to remove one section on one of the lens strips for each car, being care- ful to not remove the mounting lugs near where the cuts were made.
The positions of the copper shoes are different for the LED lighting and the bulbs; the piece is marked to indicate that. The LEDs or lamps go in the center of the car and the lens strips transmit the light to each end of the car. Reflective foil is behind the lens strips.
RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN
Except for the very top rail, the rear observation platform railing provides a solid frame around the passengers. The center section was pre-drilled with holes for the modeler to insert the plastic (non- illuminated) B&O logo drumhead. I wanted an illuminated tail sign so I used one from Tomar. The instructions for the Tomar drumheads recommended they be glued to the outside of the railing. Since the railing was solid I decided to drill a hole large enough for the Tomar drumhead to fit through the railing. I started with a pin vise and a No. 70 drill and gradually worked up to a quar- ter-inch drill using new bits and skip- ping no more than one size per step. When the pin vise wouldn’t hold the larger drills, I used a small vice-grip and took my time. Since the drumhead was slightly larger than the hole, I used a round riffler, working from the outside of the railing to bevel the hole to fit the casting. Going forward carefully, it took about 20 minutes to finish the hole. To ensure the drumhead worked, I followed the Tomar wiring instructions carefully. After cleaning off any flash and painting the drumhead, I installed the LED in it using a fillet of cement. (I used clear Polyseamseal All-Purpose Adhesive & Caulk in One for this.) The Tomar drumhead casting has a hole in
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