Pan-Asian At Coya
Helen Wade-Smith enjoys a taste of Peru in London’s Piccadilly O
n a hot and sunny evening as London swelters above us my consort and I are tucked into the cool early evening calm of Coya,
our haunt for the night. Te vibe is Peruvian with pan-Asian influences and the lively Pisco bar that greets us on descent of the stairs is already in full swing as an elegant set sip glimmering cocktails. Basement dining is not usually favoured but to be honest we hardly noticed such is the vibrancy of the place. We pass through to the restaurant, take up seats on a long leather banquette, and reflect on the milieu. Attentive staff, overseen by a world-class maitre d’, swirl around a well-heeled crowd set amongst a gilded backdrop. Te walls are resplendent in gold, illuminated by low hung pendant lamps that offer more atmosphere than actual light, whilst the floor is a rustic hexagonal terracotta tile. Te blend overall works well but true Peruvian soul remains elusive. Te spirit of the place is most apparent in the
fiery open kitchens home to head chef Sanjay Dwivedi and his characterful team charging about doing tricks with knives and the Josper grill flaring in the background.
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We hardly have the chance to begin conversing when Piotr, our dashing waiter, presents menus and details the specials, which sound magnificent. A large appetite or decisive mind is the key to a successful dinner here such is the breadth and scale of the menu (overwhelming but waiters are well versed and offer insightful advice). As we peruse there are delightful hand made
corn chips and prawn crackers, with the most impressive guacamole I’ve tasted this side of South America. We select razor clams and crispy prawns from the vast array of para picar (small dishes to pick at to you and me) and are not disappointed. Te clams are deliciously zingy with lime and chilli, and the prawns have a wonderful crunchy bite giving way to the most lusciously juicy centre. Coya’s sommelier is as impressive as the wine list and she aided the selection of a superb Malbec that was delightfully fruity and perfectly light for a hot summer’s eve. It was a consummate accompaniment to the tamarind steak that was as fragrant and succulent as any I’ve sampled. Te absolute jewel in the crown was a sea bass
risotto, one of the most popular dishes and for very good reason. It is presented at the table
with great ceremony, sea bass gleaming on top of pearly rice as the lid is lifted. Te dish is then stirred with a flourish and the resulting effect is a melting paradise in the mouth. A definite contender for my last dish on earth list. Skewers of flavour-packed tender chicken and a quirky chef ’s salad of sweetcorn and herbs are other highlights although the asparagus was a solitary let down (perhaps my fault for ordering out of season). Sorbets follow and we are soon winding our way out and up, peeking in at the members lounge on the way out which is classic and refined. As we leave Lima behind and step out, into London it strikes me that with such a prestigious Piccadilly address and illustrious team expectations run high but, fortunately, Coya did not disappoint.
For more information, visit,
www.coyarestaurant.com 118 Piccadilly, Mayfair, London, Greater London W1J 7NW Telephone: 020 7042 7118
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