Starters The freshest, most inspirational cook books of the month
KITCHEN LIBRARY Pick
of the Month
PLEASURES Matt Tebbutt
GUILTY Quercus, £18.99
Take a sneaky peek inside the kitchen cupboards of chef and TV presenter Matt Tebbutt and you will probably find all sorts of guilty pleasures, from jars of peanut butter to bottles of cherry cola. For somebody whose excellent restaurant (The Foxhunter near Abergavenny) has won awards for its local, seasonal, artisan ingredients, this might come as a bit of a surprise but, as Matt says, “I’m partial to a bit of ’70s disco, too, but that doesn’t mean I’m going to add Odyssey to the playlist at my restaurant”. There are 130 indulgent recipes in the book, most of them utilising cupboard staples, and whether it’s spiced ‘Marmitey’ rarebit, Latin American peanut soup or ‘beer can’ chicken, you can cook safe in the knowledge that you share your guilty, dirty secrets with an acclaimed chef.
Mange Tout Bruno Loubet Ebury, £25
Although renowned for the classic French bistro style of his celebrated London restaurants, Bruno Loubet’s eight years in Australia saw him experimenting with healthier, lighter dishes and Asian influences. This is Loubet’s first book since 1995, and it’s a collection of ‘bistro cooking with a modern twist’. As well signature dishes such as beetroot ravioli and snails and meatballs, there are several new recipe ideas inspired by his time Down Under, including sweet soy braised beef cheeks with mango salad and shredded cabbage, cashew nut and duck salad. The desserts chapter is a highlight, especially the summery fresh raspberry mousse with basil syrup, and autumnal prune and Armagnac sticky pudding.
Ceviche: Peruvian Kitchen
Martin Morales Weidenfeld & Nicolson, £25
In just over a year, Martin Morales’ Ceviche restaurant has become one of London’s hottest new openings and the first really authentic taste of Peru in the UK. Vibrant, healthy and using lots of fish, chillies, corn and citrus fruits, Peruvian cooking is among some of the most exciting in the world – a fact picked upon by the great chef Escoffier more than a century ago. The recipes in this lavishly illustrated book may require a few specialist ingredients but nothing you can’t find in good ethnic shops or online. We particularly like the Coca- Cola chicken (‘not the diet variety’!), sea bass ceviche (the restaurant’s signature dish) and, of course, the chapter on potent Peruvian cocktails. You’ll love the cover too – very strokable.
The success of cookbooks from Moro and Ottolenghi has helped to popularise the deliciously distinctive food of the Middle East, not to mention dramatically increase sales of pomegranate molasses and sumac. This tender, evocative book continues in a similar vein by interweaving recipes with memories of a childhood spent growing up in Syria and Lebanon. As well as the cuisine of those countries, it includes recipes from Jordan, Palestine, Turkey and Iran to create a definitive collection of Persian dishes, from stewed lamb and smoked aubergine purée to Iranian saffron ice cream. The bakery section almost warrants a book in itself, with recipes for flatbreads, pitas and all manner of pies and pastries.
22
Levant Anissa Helou
Harper Collins, £20
One: A Cook and
her Cupboard Florence Knight Saltyard Books, £26
From fashion student to head chef at fashionable London restaurant Polpetto, Florence Knight has enjoyed a meteoric rise to the top, and her star remains firmly in the ascendant. Her much anticipated first cookbook, supported by some wonderful photography from the ever- excellent Jason Lowe, takes its lead from what Knight calls the building blocks of her kitchen – olive oil, salt, honey, chocolate, vinegar, flour, eggs, mustard, nuts, lemons, fresh herbs and, perhaps, surprisingly, ketchup. Knight’s food is fiercely seasonal and straightforward, with a heavy Italian influence running through dishes such as braised prawns, fennel and pangratto; whole roasted veal shin with broad beans; and olive oil, chocolate and orange cake.
crumbsmag.com
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