cost of organic fl ours ground from modern wheat. E inkorn fl our from Jovial Foods,
Inc. in North Franklin, Conn., sells for $7.99 for two pounds. The grain’s pale yellow color is a refl ection of its particular antioxidant content, says the company’s president, Carla Bartolucci. Jovial’s whole-wheat pasta contains a quarter of a milligram of the antioxidant lutein — as much as in a large egg, the package says. It costs $3.49 for 12 ounces. But the amount of the
lutein, which is believed to help maintain healthy eyes, in einkorn is comparatively small. For example, ¼ cup of cooked spinach can contain some 7 milligrams, says Joy Dubost, a spokeswoman for the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, a Chicago professional organization. Einkorn has more protein
than most supermarket whole- wheat fl our, plus more trace minerals such as phosphorus and zinc — but most Americans don’t lack those, she adds. Fiber, which is often lacking in the diet, can be slightly lower in einkorn than in modern wheats. “Th e evidence isn’t there that ancient grains are any more nutritious to consume than other whole grains,” says Dubost. It isn’t true that modern breeding
has reduced wheat nutrition, adds Judi Adams, president of the Wheat Foods Council, a trade group of wheat growers and fl our producers. You do get more calcium from
einkorn: According to the nutrition information printed on the packages, ¼ cup of Jovial Einkorn Wheat Berries, which must be ground before use, has 4 percent of the daily recommended calcium, compared with 2 percent from red wheat berries from Norwich, Vt.’s King Arthur Flour Co., and none in most supermarket preground fl ours.
In an informal taste test for this
article, einkorn in baked goods had a rich fl avor, much like cornbread. Baking with it can be tricky as it doesn’t absorb as much water as regular all-purpose fl our and can result in a sticky dough, says Jovial’s Bartolucci. Bread recipes must be slightly altered to work correctly, often by using less liquid. Muffi ns and cakes can be made without
grain called teff , and pseudo-grains (similar but not in the same family) such as amaranth, buckwheat, and quinoa. All of those products are safe for people who can’t eat gluten, but make sure they are labeled gluten-free to be sure they don’t have trace amounts of gluten, says Tricia Thompson, a Manchester, Mass., dietitian who specializes in gluten- free eating.
CELIAC SUFFERERS Preliminary laboratory
research on cells suggested einkorn’s gluten is diff erent from the gluten in modern wheat and might be safe for people with celiac disease. This research has been cited by companies selling einkorn. A small human test of
einkorn crackers, presented last May at Digestive Disease Week in San Diego, found that the ancient grain “was not safe for celiac patients,” says researcher Barbara Zanini, a scientist at the
University of Brescia in Italy.
JOVIAL PREPARATION Carla Bartolucci is president of Jovial Foods, Inc., which sells organic and heirloom foods, including einkorn flour.
changing recipes, she adds. In our test, blueberry muffi ns and pancakes made with einkorn fl our were delicious, with an enjoyable, unique taste that was subtle enough to not overwhelm the goodies. Quick breads — one white and one
whole wheat — made from the recipes on Jovial’s packages were fl avorful with a dense texture that some people may fi nd too heavy. Other ancient grains include
sorghum, millet, and a North African
The s tudy began with seven patients whose celiac disease was under control. After adding the crackers to their diet, two patients dropped out of
the study because
symptoms of the disease recurred, and of the remaining fi ve, four had compromised function of the villi, or small hairs in the intestine — a hallmark of the disease. It is possible that people who are
sensitive to gluten, but don’t have full- blown celiac disease, may be able to tolerate einkorn, but further research is needed, scientists say.
Reprinted by permission of The Wall Street Journal, Copyright © 2012 Dow Jones & Company, Inc. All Rights Reserved. License number 3047221210501
MARCH 2013 | NEWSMAX MAXLIFE 83
COURTESY OF CLAY MCLACHLAN/JOVIAL FOODS
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