the buzz fromIDI
reading labels; made easy
Sally Penford demystifies skin care labels
When you pick up your skin care products and read the label does any of it make sense to you?
A good place to start with being a confident label reader is to look at the longevity of the product. The Open-Jar symbol was adopted in Europe in February 2003 and has been progressively appearing on the labels of cosmetic products. The PAO (PeriodAfter Opening) shows the number of months a product can be used before needing to be discarded.
The PAO of products varies greatly; organic, preservative free products often have a PAO of between three to six months whereas the vast majority of skin care products containing preservatives fall between 12 to 24 months.
In addition to the PAO, in all Over-The- Counter (OTC) Drug formulations, such as sunscreens and anti-bacterial acne products you will see a printed expiration date which indicates how long theActive Ingredient(s), such as sunscreens, remain “active or potent” before needing to be discarded. This is irrespective of whether the product has been opened or not. If a product is opened and it has a 12-month recommended PAO, yet the expiry date extends this time frame, you would follow the PAO as the guide to when to discard the product.
getting to grips with ingredients
When reading an ingredients label on a skin care product, it may be advantageous to have a degree in cosmetic science if you wish to understand and pronounce
each component! Unrecognisable names are often found in products we know and love, and the reason very little makes sense to the consumer is because all cosmetic products must list the INCI ingredient (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) name. This is the internationally recognised name by chemists the world over. Botanical ingredients are listed using their genus, species, common name, plant part e.g. CitrusAurantium Dulcis is actually Orange Peel Extract.
When reading a label, the ingredients with concentrations of one percent or more are all listed in descending order of use. The ingredients used in concentrations of less than one percent can be listed in any order. This may seem a little strange but this means the formulation can be protected from being replicated easily. There is no requirement to list the quantity or percentage of the majority of ingredients.
Skin care product categories such as natural, organic and cosmeceutical products are extremely difficult to regulate. Poor regulation means that marketing-hype and label literature can be misleading. The term ‘natural’ as an example; what does it really mean? That it contains no chemicals? The (un- regulated) term refers to a product requiring one percent of the ingredients to be natural. In regards to Organic products, there are certainly some authentic organic products in the marketplace but once again this poorly regulated area means there are also some that are not
compliant.My advice would be to do your homework on the company and the certification before purchase if organics is your bag.
We hear the word Cosmeceuticals banded around frequently. This term is not an
official term recognised or used by government legislating bodies such as the FDA, but rather one created by marketing in the cosmetic arena. The definition widely agreed upon of a Cosmeceutical is ‘a cosmetic product containing actives which affect the structure and function of the skin and/or are formulated to treat/prevent disease or specific skin conditions’. Cosmeceuticals could also be called special-effect ingredients as they help to radically improve the appearance of the skin. Examples are humectants, AHA’s and sunscreens.
Look out for these results focused, high performance ingredients which promote a healthy, vibrant skin:
• Retinyl Palmitate (Retinol/Vitamin A): Helps reverse the signs of premature ageing while stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis to increase elasticity, strengthen and firm skin.
•MagnesiumAscorbyl Phosphate:A non-acidic skin conditioning agent, stable form ofVitamin C linked to collagen formation whilst providing antioxidant protection. Inhibits (melanin formation) pigmentation andMMP (MatrixMetalloproteinase) enzymes that contribute to collagen degradation.
• TocopherylAcetate (Vitamin E): Improves the barrier function and smoothness of the
skin.An excellent antioxidant which defends against Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS).
• Glucosamine HCI:A glycosaminoglycan which fightsAGEs (Advanced Glycation End Products) and stimulates cell sloughing as well as HyaluronicAcid and collagen formation in skin.
GUILD NEWS 41
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