can become choked within an hour if the currents or wind change. Constantly checking the weather forecast is therefore essential. Examining the forecast also al- lows us to alter our itinerary a day or two in advance to keep us in the best weather to make more landings. In many areas, such as the Weddell Sea
in Antarctica, no prudent Captain would consider taking his ship there unless the fore- cast showed settled weather over a lengthy period. Otherwise, changing weather could potentially trap the ship for days on end. Even the hotel department faces chal-
lenges when operating in Polar regions. Supplies are often limited and delays in shipping can limit what the chefs have to work with. On our three-week expeditions to the Falklands, South Georgia and Antarc- tica, we have to ensure we stop at the small capital town of Port Stanley to
take on fresh produce and, more important- ly, fuel for the remainder of the voyage. If weather conditions prevent docking, aspects of the expedition could have to be curtailed.
E
ither despite, or perhaps because of, the additional challenges, I have found the Polar regions more appeal-
ing than anywhere else I have sailed. As Chief Officer, I start every day at 3.45am in order to be on the bridge by 4. For the first 15 minutes, I silently curse about be- ing up at such an awful hour. As soon as I arrive on the bridge, though, the sight of massive mountains buried under snow and softly glowing in the low light, or the misty blows of whales ahead makes me appreciate the privi- lege of being in this surreal landscape, far removed from the rest of the world.
Working in Antarctica and the Arctic
also gives me an odd bragging right. I fig- ure I spend more time in daylight than just about anyone else. During the summer, I am often in Svalbard where the sun won’t come close to setting. For the winter, we follow the sun south and enjoy days last- ing 20 hours or more on a routine basis. Even when the sun does set in Antarctica, it is a long-drawn-out affair, with brilliant colours lighting a sky that rarely com- pletely darkens.
I still find it hard, however, to pinpoint
exactly why the Polar regions have such an impact on people. Perhaps it is seeing the grand scope and size of Antarctica; so dif- ficult to grasp until you’ve been there. It may be the inexplicable thrill of
watching a polar bear and cubs approach the ship and mentally take stock of the sur- roundings and the curious sight of our ship. Whatever emotion the Polar regions
evoke, though, our passengers are always deeply affected by their journey to these remote and inhospitable lands.
While they may not have ab- sorbed all the nuances of navigation I concentrate on, I know they have come to share my appreciation for the unique and extraordinary beauty.
Summer 2011 I WORLD OF CRUISING
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