ADVENTURE CRUISING
Sarah Gilbert discovers a new part of the cruise world in the company of Star Clippers
I
t was dark when I first caught sight of Star Flyer. She was anchored out in Puerto Caldera harbour under a star-studded sky, her rig bedecked in hundreds of twinkling lights. A replica of the four-masted clippers that dominated the oceans in the 19th
Taking a Flyer at cen-
tury, she was about to embark on a new route along Costa Rica’s dramatic Pacific coastline, where the diverse ecosystems range from steamy rainforest in the south to misty cloud forest in the north. What better way to explore its remote bays and islands than by tall ship?
Costa
strains of Vangelis’ ‘Conquest of Paradise’. Star Clippers attracts a loyal following
and many of the 140 (out of a possible 170) international passengers – American, English, German and French among them – had sailed with them before. There was a German gentleman who was completing his 50th
sailing with them
The Flyer has a state-of-the-art engine but is under sail whenever the wind blows. When I boarded, I didn’t know my spanker from my mizzen or jib but it was thrilling to watch the sails unfurl as the rig came alive with creaks and groans and we eased smoothly out of harbour to the dramatic
60 WORLD OF CRUISING I Summer 2011
during the voyage. The hands-on crew hail from equally diverse countries, such as Po- land, the Philippines, Mexico and Sweden, and, from the purser’s office to the dining room, engine room to the bar, every crew member went out of their way to make sure all our needs were met. What you get on the usual cruise ship is non-stop entertainment, from cabaret to casinos, and innumerable daytime
diversions. This is another type of sea voy- age; one where the main interest lies in the scenery, the ports of call and the ship itself. The cruise focuses on nature and watersports rather than swanky shops and dressy dinners.
ou can also join the amiable captain on the bridge or lend a hand hoisting the sails. I spent part of one afternoon climbing up the rope ladder – with safety harness attached – to the Crow’s Nest for spectacular views. Plus there are informative lectures and morning aerobics or afternoon ‘Aquasize’ classes to offset the gastronomic delights on offer. Our first day was spent at sea, heading south from Puerto Caldera, which gave
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