COVER STORY
pier is the only access to a muddy slope we must navigate to scamper up to the trail. Though the first 15 minutes of the trail is manageable, the rest of the 2-mile hike is fairly treacherous. At least there are sturdy ropes to hang on to, but, being just 5ft tall, I found the tall steps, carved into the side of the mountain, difficult to negotiate. Going downhill it is nearly impossible not to slip. However, I did find crossing the bamboo bridges (basically, three poles lashed together with a railing for balance) great fun. And it was fascinating to see a native ‘animism’ grave, though if we hadn’t been told it was a grave, no one would have guessed. It was a tiny a-framed wooden structure with a sports bag suspended underneath (packed with clothing for the after- life), with pots of food arranged
around the grave to give sustenance to the person who had died.
SOUTH CHINA SEA DELTA On day six, we leave the interior and retrace our steps to Sibu, where we will dock for the night before travelling on to the delta and, ultimately, the South China Sea. It is a rainy morning, but this does not dampen our spirits. After a fascinating visit to a Malanau village down yet another tributary and the chance to see the sago palm flour-making process, we re-embark Orient Pandaw and sail on to Sarikei. The evening’s special entertainment is a Lion Dance performed by the local Buddhist Society’s award-winning troupe. In true multi-cultural form, the troupe has Malaysian members as well as Chinese. The performance by these youngsters, all to the sonorous
Orient Pandaw Built:
Length: 180ft Beam: 34ft Draft:
3ft
PANDAW CRUISES FACTFILE 2008 in Saigon
accompaniment of a Chinese drum, is well received by an appreciative audience. Morning dawns in Sarikei and, after breakfast, we take a manageable trek through a pepper plantation. There are still a few challenges on this walk as well, including navigating several rickety bridges. For those with plenty of energy, a short hill-climb reveals the small Pau waterfall, one of the many sources of the Rajang. Afterwards, we visit another Iban long- house and enjoy some freshly-baked cookies. On the way back to our ship, I spot a pair of hornbills flying across the road. It is exciting to finally start noticing the wildlife on my own. Clichéd as it sounds, the sunset over the
Berths: 60 passengers on Main and Upper Decks Decks: 4 Crew: 28
ITINERARIES: A 9-day cruise, including accommodation in a twin cabin, airport transfers, full board plus tea/coffee, soft drinks, local beer and all gratuities costs from £2,419pp ( based on 2 sharing), with return flights on Malaysia Airlines (
www.malaysiaairlines.com) from London Heathrow. Departures: June 20, Aug 1, Sept 1, Oct 1, Nov 1, 10, 20, December 10, 20.
MORE INFO: In the UK, call 0808 168 1458 or visit
www.ewaterways.co.uk; in the US, call 1877 359 7458 or
www.ewaterways.us.
Emirates also offer flights to Kuala Lumpur,
www.emirates.com. Pre-cruise was sponsored by Sarawak Tourist Board,
www.sarawaktourism.com, and Diethelm Travel,
www.diethelmtravel.com.
22 WORLD OF CRUISING I Summer 2011
mangrove forest is possibly the most gorgeous I have ever seen. The sky has suddenly turned a deep turquoise and the clouds are an orangey-pink shade, which is reflected on the seemingly endless wild palm trees along the river’s edge. We had been scouting for proboscis monkeys and other wildlife along tributar- ies off the main river. These unique animals exist only in this part of Borneo and locals take us in their long wooden boats into the mangroves on a quiet safari to seek them out. Unfortunately, a shy langgur monkey was the only animal we spotted. There are no guarantee of wildlife sightings here in the delta, but the magic of the mangroves cast its spell on everyone and we were delighted by this amazing landscape.
FINAL THOUGHTS My adventure in the jungle may not have been exactly what I expected, but I have enjoyed it thoroughly and been surprised by the diversity of cultures in Sarawak. And, of course, the bonus has been the warm welcome by the indigenous people, who are open and genuine. I am looking forward to hearing the words Selamat Datang (“Welcome”) again soon.
Photo by Lynn Houghton
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