“Here, YOU BECOME ENTRANCED by the
river, and BEGUILED BY THE PEOPLE”
spacious drawers underneath the bed, a good-sized shower and air conditioning. The sun deck has plenty of loungers, comfort- able rattan seating and a bar. There is even a lecture theatre opposite the dining room. With the exception of wine at dinner,
which must be purchased, alcoholic and soft drinks are included with Pandaw Cruises. Though the first meal is a slightly disappointing duck stew, everything improves after that. Guests are able to choose their main course (from a selection of three) for lunch and dinner. The soup-and-salad buffet offered at lunchtime has enormous choice and many skip the
main dish just for this option.
Our guide, Louis, explains some local customs in conjunction with our first visit to a native Iban longhouse. On that same excursion, there will be a chance to visit a local market (Teresang), so we are taught a few key phrases to do a bit of bartering and make a good impression with the locals. The Miring, or welcoming, ceremony at
the Ruman Jandok Longhouse, and every Iban longhouse, has a distinct tradition and involves not only the sharing of food and drink but also the sacrificing of a chicken. Today, the tribal leader only moves the chicken around us to replicate this tradition (much to our relief). A welcome dance (Ngajat) is performed and we are all invited to get up and participate.
RIVERBANK BBQ On the morning of day four and we take our tender and travel up the Baleh River. After a visit to a remote native school and medical clinic, we penetrate even further upstream and discover a deserted sandy river bank set up with tables and chairs.
What ensued was a delightful BBQ feast entirely organised by the Pandaw’s cooks and crew. We tuck into chicken and rice, cooked in huge, round bamboo sticks in the ground (Pansoh) and accompanied by vegetables. The meal concludes with a colourful array of native fruits.
As we return to our mooring, there is a useful sarong wrapping demonstration followed by a chance to try out a blow- pipe, the deadly weapon used by the Penan tribe. By blowing the hardwood dart through the wooden pipe, simultaneously using a bit of diaphragm action, you can achieve good accuracy. Luckily, there is no poison on the dart tips!
JUNGLE TREK I am looking forward to the first real trek into the jungle and the day dawns clear and hot. As there are leeches, we are advised to cover from head to toe. Within minutes of climbing the first hill, my companions and I are dripping with sweat.
Our tender has carried us to a tiny opening in the trees, where a makeshift
Summer 2011 I WORLD OF CRUISING 21
Photo by Vicky Khoo
Photo by Lynn Houghton Photo by Lynn Houghton
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